My terroir is older than yours (Heathcote, Victoria – 22/04/2013)

Back in 2007 renowned Australian wine commentator and educator Campbell Mattinson published a book entitled “Why the French Hate Us – the real story of Australian Wine.” I’m very ashamed to admit that I haven’t actually read this book but I have certainly heard wonderful things. It is on my pile of shame. The interesting thing is that it isn’t just the French but Europeans in general who hate us, without even understanding Australia that well. I had more producers in Europe than I can count expressing interest in working vintage in New Zealand and Chile than this big brown land, and even more reducing Australian wine to simple fruit driven mass-produced and marketed brands. The simple fact is that Australia produces a minute amount of wine compared to giants like France, Italy and Spain, less than single regions in North & South America, and yet we are the fourth largest exporter in the world. Clearly we are doing something right. In truth the world hasn’t even seen the best wines and regions that Australia has to offer as they are still being discovered. Something that has recently been discovered is that the pre-Cambrian soils in the Heathcote region of Victoria are the oldest in the world. Another reason to hate us.

Pre-Cambrian Heathcote soils

Pre-Cambrian Heathcote soils

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Galli Estate – 22/04/2013

2013 Fiano
Bright apples, smoky salty sulphurous. Light bright crisp body, a little texture. Long and fresh, light.

2013 Pinot Grigio carbonic
A bit of colour. Crisp fresh thin light and yet to express.

2013 Pinot Grigio
Fresh light and clean, nice fruit.

2013 Nebbiolo Rosé
Bright tight strawberry, a touch savoury. Full and dense, textured and slightly sweet with a touch of green.

2013 Sangiovese Rosé
Cherry cherry sweet fruit.

2013 Nebbiolo on 15% temp skins
Very tannic and acidic, lacks a bit of fruit sweetness.

2013 Nebbiolo second pick
Fuller riper juicier, better balance depth and character.

2013 Sangiovese
Nice brightness of dark cherry fruit. Dark and soft but a little sweet and simple.

2012 Nebbiolo
Tight focused wonderfully long, great black cherry fruit sweetness.

2011 Nebbiolo
Slight savoury but very bright fresh juicy. Fresh light acidity, quite tight.

Galli rooster

Galli rooster

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Jasper Hill – 22/04/2013

2012 Nebbiolo
Bright juicy black cherry sour plum, a little spice and menthol. Juicy full and ripe, dense and sweet dark fruit, softness but structure. Juicy bright pomegranate.

2012 Emily’s Paddock
Dark juicy black fruits with hints of spice and rosemary. Very supple long and precise, complete focused, bright fresh, wonderful acid brightness and integration.

2012 Georgia’s Paddock
Darker juicier deeper plum aroma, slightly smoky. Bolder and more forward, riper earthier profile, more mellow but fuller at the sane time.

2013 Lostesso Fiano
Nice texture and depth, lacking salt, but textural and energetic.

Jasper Hill barrel

Jasper Hill barrel

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Shake things up (McLaren Vale, South Australia – 11/04/2013)

No other region in South Australia does wine marketing better than the McLaren Vale. They have been producing quality wine there longer than any other region in the country and this has been well communicated all over the world.  There are great soils, a stable climate and sufficient old-vine material to make a European blush. Brands cover the whole gamut; iconic, commercial, boutique and cult. Their wine tourism is some of the most sophisticated I have seen, not to mention diverse in terms of cellar door offerings. Yet when I first visited in early 2011 as a trade guest I left as underwhelmed as I had already been. In some ways this is because I felt that not only were they focusing on varieties that are so common in Australia and the world, but they were also producing them in an outdated and inelegant way. These are not wines that excite me, nor are they particularly exciting younger consumers who crave difference, particularly from wines their parents drank. The thing that did excite me was the number of producers starting to work with alternative varieties, experimenting and diversifying to find different expressions and compliments to the environment. A shame that so little emphasis was placed on this on our program. For this reason I was interested in returning to visit some producers who are focusing on new vines and wines in a somewhat stale wine region.

McLaren Vale at its best

McLaren Vale at its best

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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt – 31/01/2012

Kaseler Trocken Riesling 2010
Very mineral and flinty nose, nice balance, very approachable, apple and pear crispness, fresh and friendly, nice purity and lines.

Wiltinger Trocken Riesling 2010
More struck-match minerality, nicely balanced, less fruit character, hints of kale and parsley, fresh and clean, great finish.

Nies’chen Grosses Gewachs Riesling 2010
More gunpowder, floral honeydew melon, hints of paw paw, nice dry balance, complex and full, delicate pineapple tropicality.

Juffer-Sonnenuhr Grosses Gewachs Riesling 2010
Very subdued, a little sour, reminiscent of apple juice.

Josephshofer Kabinett Riesling 2010
Wonderful integration, lovely balance, off-dry and long, delicate fruit and floral notes.

Scharzofberger Kabinett Riesling 2010
Salty briny nose, slightly different texturally, good acid freshness, wonderful finish, nice balance, ageing potential.

Scharzofberger Kabinett Riesling 2010
Richer on the palate, lovely savoury off-dry, slight Japanese flavour.

Brauneberger Juffer-Sonneuhr Spatlese Riesling 2005
Beautiful richness, wonderful balance, nice long finish.

Auslese Gold Cap #10 Riesling 2010
Lemon barley cordial apple, extremely concentrated, amazingly deep and rich, lovely and fresh, great finish.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt tasting

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt tasting

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Clemensbusch – 30/01/2012

Vom Roten Shiefer Risling 2010
Slatey mineral, very fresh zingy nose, ripe lemon smoked honey, lemon sherbet, great brightness, textural fruit, zesty lime.

Marienburg Grosses Gewachs Riesling 2008
Peach blossom apricot and honey, nice clean and fresh, great concentration of fruit, nice balance, lovely pure expression, lime and grapefruit.

Marienburg Grosses Gewachs Riesling 2010
Really lovely zingy fresh fruit, fresh citrus and green papaya, citric acid spritz, very young.

Marienburg Grosses Gewachs Rothenffad Riesling 2010
Candied aromatics, dried banana, creamy soda, coke lollies. Intense minerals, rich fruit on the mid-palate, more complex and deep.

Marienburg Grosses Gewachs Falkenlay Riesling 2010
Rounder fuller depth, bright acid freshness, nice balance, very vibrant and fresh.

Marienburg Grosses Gewachs Falkenlay Riesling 2009
Riper tropical pineapple aromas, hints of oily kerosene, fuller texture and viscosity, ripeness and sweetness, some savoury earthy smokiness.

Marienburg Erste Lage Spatlese 2010
Talcy soapy, very delicate semi-sweet, ripe citrus and stone fruit, viscosity and texture.

Auslese Riesling 2006
Oiliness starting to show on the nose, quite treacly and syrupy, nice complex savoury elements, lovely warming fruit salad & custard.

Clemensbusch wines

Clemensbusch wines

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Heymann-Lowenstein – 30/01/2012

Schifeterassen Reserve Riesling 2010
Nice floral botrytised aromas, pear peach nectarine, brisk zippy acids, nice balance, hints of minerality, good concentration, a bit of texture, great clean finish.

Von Blauern Schiefer Riesling 2010
Slightly more candied nose and citrus, grapefruit concentration, sweetness doesn’t stand out, quite sharp, immense minerality.

Kirchberg Erste Lage Reserve Riesling 2010
Different minerality, slightly deeper, lime and peach, seems more complex and floaty.

Rottgen Erste Lage Reserve Riesling 2010
Much more intense, fuller more depth, riper stone fruit, acids more tempered, longer on the palate, very aromatic floral notes.

Uhlen Erste Lage B Reserve Riesling 2010
Very serious wine, blue slate, brooding complexity, very long, builds on the palate.

Uhlen Erste Lage LaubalyReserve Riesling 2010
Sweetness more prominent, broader rounder style, textural floral minerality.

Uhlen Erste Lage Rothlay Reserve Riesling 2009
Juby candied apricot, texturally very different, acids much lower in this vintage, apricot and orange.

Heymann-Lowenstein slates

Heymann-Lowenstein slates

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Laurent-Perrier – 20/01/2012

Ultra Brut
Zero dosage, very zippy bright fresh citrus. Lovely and crisp yet soft and creamy, approachable bright clean pure fruit, chardonnay component very strong.

Millesime 2002
Toastier richer depth, still very clean and precise, harmony of acid and lees.

Grand Siecle
Quite toasty and yeasty, interesting blend of three vintages, perhaps lost its way a little bit.

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle

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Larmandier-Bernier – 20/01/2012

Rosé de Saignée
Quite dark for a champagne rosé, and aromatically has similar dark berry characters coupled with subtle cheesy game aromas. It floats nicely between freshness and complexity, making it a versatile aperitif or food wine.

Tradition 1er Cru
A blend of 10% pinot noir and 90% chardonnay, and with full malo has lovely creamy sweet yoghurt lees autolysis character. It has delicious fresh cumquat citrus fruit flavours, but also a nice slightly savoury baked filo pastry element.

Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru
More creaminess in the citrus fruit, and almost non-alcoholic apple cider sweetness.

Terre de Vertus 2007 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs
With no dosage liqueur there was very chalky green apple fruitiness on the nose, with a hint of salted cashews underneath. On the palate there was much fuller texture and depth than the NV wines, the apple picking up some custard elements.

Vielle de Cramant Grand Cru 2006
This became more vanilla and caramel, introducing more pear and orange fruit to the mix.

Grand Cru
Had serious complexity and length on it, hinting at its matchability with food.

Terre de Vertus 1997
Disgorged the previous day, and although the colour had barely changed the nose and palate was evolving into a much more tertiary area; hints of marmalade, mushrooms, roasted nuts and vintage cheddar.

Larmandier-Bernier tasting

Larmandier-Bernier tasting

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Billecart-Salmon – 19/01/2012

2011 Charly-sur-Marne Pinot Meunier
Aromatic grassy kiwi lime elderberry, light fresh mid-palate, bright acids.

2011 Ay Pinot Noir
Slightly savoury cherry stalks, contained but broad and expressive, passion fruit zing and zest.

2011 Mesnil-sur-Oger Chardonnay
Apple lime nashi grapefruit, great lines through the palate.

Extra Brut
Toasty for a Brut Nature, dried herbs and honey, great drive across the palate but not straight down the middle, nice spicy berry notes, savoury sweetness.

Brut Reserve
Honeyed richness, lees doesn’t get in the way.

Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
Exceptionally well-integrated acids, freshness and drive, rich citrus creaminess.

Brut Sous Bois
Smells like white burgundy, crunchy and really complex. Amazing wine with food.

Vintage 2004
Rich creamy light caramel, apple & pear custard, subtle toast and sesame, broad with rolling soft berry and mandarin.

Brut Blanc de Blancs 1999
Struck-match Chablis style, reductive dried citrus peel, full yet racy acids, big citrus fruit sweetness, powerful expression but subtle and complex.

Nicolas Francois 2000
Soft subtle sweet butternut pumpkin, light soft full rich and subtle, young yet complex, toasty smoked artichokes, fruit-forward at the moment.

Billecart-Salmon tasting

Billecart-Salmon tasting

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