Tag Archives: Italy

Heart & Soil Imports – 17/09/2013

Randall Pollard is pretty well-known in Victoria for his history as an independent wine retailer and merchant. He is known for sourcing a great range of interesting unique wines from Europe. He invited me to the office to have a look at a few new arrivals into the country.

Keller Rieslaner Spätlese 2011
Quite juicy lime & quince, lovely and round, generous long, some residual sugar viscosity.

Keller Riesling 2012
Crisp bright flinty citrus. Pure fine straight and fresh, mouth-filling intensity.

Keller Riesling Van der Fels 2012
Delicate subtle floral lychee minerality. On the shy side for the moment, textural minerality, fruit a little closed, will need some more time to open and express.

Keller Riesling RR 2012
Gorgeous blossomy rich intensity, very musky with rich dried citrus. Very mature character, earthiness and slight spice.

Louis Moreau Vaulignot 1er Chablis 2010
Richness density vanilla butter salty citrus. Fine broad yet focused acidity, length, dried pear and papaya, creamy texture.

Vicentini Agostino Il Casale 2011
Very savoury earthy dark spice aroma. Very mature savoury texture, some dried stone fruit notes.

Malvira Roero Arneis 2012
Lifted bright floral kiwi intensity. Fresh round dry and generous, lots of character whilst being friendly and drinkable.

Malvira Renesio Roero Arneis 2011
Dirty wild earthy wetness. Density and broadness at the same time, tasting the dilution of the overcast wet vintage. Very wet stone.

Malvira Saglietto Roero Arneis 2011
A little more feminine in nature, pretty floral candied notes. Just as mature and dense on the palate as the Renesio but more appealing fruit sweetness and roundness.

Chateau de Ségriès Tavel 2012
Bright intense cherry strawberry cream. Dry and full but fresh and long, nice balanced acidity and fruit, considering fruit sweetness it is deceptively dry and warm. Dangerous almost.

Leave a comment

Filed under Tasting Notes

Voyager Estate Masterclass 2013

For the fifth year in a row, Margaret River producer Voyager Estate hosted a masterclass in Melbourne and other Australian cities to benchmark new releases of some of their wines. This was my second time at this event; one of my first entries on this blog spoke about the first time back in September of 2011, just before I left for my trip. The exercise is designed to show sommeliers, buyers and media that Voyager is very confident about the quality of their wine against exceptional examples from around the world. Showing even more hubris, they do this against their three key wines; chardonnay, shiraz and a cabernet/merlot blend. That’s serious chutzpah.

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Wine Events

Eurocentric Tasting – 9/07/2013

Neville Yates imports wines from Europe, South Africa and New Zealand under his Eurocentric banner. I was first introduced to him when I was the wine buyer for King & Godfree, tasting a few of the wines with him. On my journey I visited some German wineries and caught up with several more at Prowein, leading me to surmise that he has one of the best collection of German producers in Australia. His range is eclectic at times with more than a few ‘natural’ producers that come up with some interesting examples. He was showing some of the new arrivals at Pei Modern in Melbourne.

Francesco Scanavino Diamant Blanc 2008
Very classic metodo classico nose. Generous fruit, fairly simple and clean on the front, hint if creamy texture.

Lancelot-Pienne Blanc de Blancs
Fairly developed open autolysis notes, very yeasty bready. Nice oxidative citrus.

Champagne Geoffroy Expression Brut
Cleaner tighter yeast notes. Rounder more earthy savoury dark berry notes, heavier on the pinot noir?

Champagne Secret Rosé
Open generous ripe red fruit nose, but tight fine and crisp savoury texture on the palate.

Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Rosé Brut
Fine pure but very complex cheesy charcuterie nose. Bold full expressive combination of red citrus and subtle savoury meats.

Benoit Ente Bourgogne Aligoté 2009
Oak dominant chardonnay style. Soft gentle vanilla creamy texture, some white peach.

Gautheron Chablis 2011
Sharp fig kiwi skin, overly leesy. Flat and dull.

Domaine Oudin Chablis 2009
Rich creamy buttery chardonnay openness. Overworked flabby lacking focus and crispness.

Domaine Arnaud Tessier Meursault Casse-Tetes 2010
Nice developed stone fruit and oak maturity integrated. Bold and generous but not heavy or hot, fairly rich and creamy from malo, but elegant and complex.

Arnaud Ente 2008 Meursault
Much more exuberant and flintier, more citrus than stone. Fuller smokier toaster, better malo integration, dense.

Dombeya Stellenbosch Chardonnay 2011
Big whack of ripe creamy juicy pineapple. Fairly soft subtle but showing that sweet vanilla pineapple crumble character.

Domaine Montvac Mélodine Vacqueyras 2011
Spicy quince apricot kernel. Open light round spice fruit friendliness.

Willi Schaefer Graacher Trocken 2011
Clean pure lime sherbet. Crisp very light pure and excellent for the price.

Schloss Lieser Dry 2011
More intense mineralic ripe deep fruit notes. More intensity and character, fuller fresher.

Emrich-Schönleber Monziger Halenberg Trocken 2011
Slightly earthy red soil minerality, subtle orange sherbet. Bold texture, generosity and density of fruit and acid.

Rebholz Kastanienbusch GG 2011
Open savoury earthy natural wild style. Subtle subdued broad. Singular.

Pierre Frick Riesling 2010
Candied oxidised pear banana caramel. Nondescript middling Alsace wine.

Grunhauser Bruderberg 2011
Intense quince floral kumquat notes. Density of viscosity and sugar, nice bite of acidic quince notes.

Emrich-Schönleber Lenz 2010
On the stripped side, de-acidified? Flat on the finish.

Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Riesling 2009
Nice density and ripeness. Great depth and character, dry sweet well-balanced.

William Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Kabinett 2011
Spicy savoury mineral complexity, nice lively fruit profile, round and yet brisk.

Fritz Haag Brauneberger Kabinett 2011
Very quiet subtle nose, but delivering plenty on the palate, wonderful length and focus, but plenty of personality.

Rebholz Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Spätlese 2011
Wild green pepper spice fig. Generosity yet exquisitely balanced sweetness. Loving this producer.

Schäfer Frölich Halenberg Spätlese 2009
Nice talcy flinty lifted citrus floral minerality. Bold full viscous sweetness, but just a hint of complex savouriness.

Schäfer-Fröhlich Halenberg Spätlese 2005
Nice generous soft rich ripe but not heavy. Still plenty of life but looking simple currently.

Dombeya Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch 2012
Tight green under-ripe.

Ataraxia Sauvignon Blanc South Africa 2012
Big tropical passion fruit. Delivers exactly what people want and is very good to boot.

Sebastian Riffault Akmèniné Sancerre 2008 (naturel)
Smells like pure honey. But still dry. Interesting, not sure it’s great though. Hipster wine?

Intellego Chenin Blanc 2011 Swartland
Interesting texturally. Different in terms of fruit to Vouvray etc.

Domaine de la Tournelle Trousseau des Corvées 2011
Clean sharp precise but good personality. Most certainly a food wine.

Roland Pignard Beaujolais Villages 2010
Strawberry spice. Very lovely.

Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Les Charmes 2011
Lean spicy under-ripe.

Pierre Thillardon Chenas Les Boccards 2010
Mean and lean, sharp.

Emile Ballard Le Grand Chemin 2008
Nice soft berry notes. Still on the sharp acidic side, a little aldehydic.

Scanavino Barbera d’Asti 2011
Tight brisk, great balance of dark fruits and spicy mulberry.

Domaine Des Espiers Cotes Du Rhone 2011
Bright fresh sufficiently savoury spicy but light and friendly with a touch of length.

Domaine Des Espiers Gigondas 2010
Earthy savoury spice, base of dark fruits underneath. Round soft yet fresh savoury red berries.

Domaine Faury Syrah 2011
Quite spicy and peppery. On the boring side…

Domaine Faury Saint Joseph 2009
A tad too much sweet oak.

Leave a comment

Filed under Tasting Notes

Trembath & Taylor New Arrivals Tasting – 19/06/2013

Toscolo Vernaccia 2012
Lovely bright floral notes. Tight crisp a little green but fresh acids.

Marcarini Roero Arneis 2012
Bold full of fruit and juby, but still crisp fresh and light, with some nice carry on the palate.

Pieropan Soave 2012
Precise mineralic pure focused and very crisp. Light clean yet not without personality.

Villa Matilde Fiano di Avellino 2011
Beautiful shellfish expressive fruits. Pure and tight yet intense, a touch warm and generous but linear.

A.Mano Rosato 2012
Very floral rosy pomegranate musk. A little too light and without body and character.

Giovanna Tantini Bardolino 2011
Bright intense juicy plum and hints of clove. Soft mellow yet fresh and friendly. Sweet core of fruit lingers.

Hauner Salina Rosso 2011
Quite shy and subtle. Very savoury textural but enough flesh to fill the mouth and soften. Tough to assess without food.

Damiano Ciolli Silene Olevano Romano Cesanese 2011
A touch different, quite rustic stinky. Surprisingly dense and full, quite tannic and bold in dark fruit. Almost aggressive on the front.

Collemassari Rigoleto Montecucco 2011
Bold earthy rustic slightly oaky notes. Not as heavy and full as you’d expect, expressive but still light and fresh.

Poderi Colla Nebbiolo D’Alba 2010
Super tight and intense, will take a whole to open up.

Contorno Fantino Barbera D’Alba Vignota 2011
Earthy generous atypical of the variety. A little simple, product of the vintage.

Carnasciale Toscana IGT 2010
Spicy and peppery of all things. Broad generous and forward but earthy red fruits.

Pieropan Amarone 2009
Spicy and dark plum fruits. Bold intense builds in the palate, good whack on the back palate. Classic vintage expression.

Leave a comment

Filed under Tasting Notes

Red + White Imports – 21/05/2013

Bianca Vigna Prosecco DOC
Nice crisp clean citrus apple, classic prosecco. Fresh bold fruit and warm mouthfeel. Super pleasant.

Louis Roederer Brut Premier
Creamy buttery autolysis, a little fat and rich bit still fresh and clean. Minimal complexity, certainly vibrant.

Louis Roederer Rosé 2007
Crisp bright citrus red grapefruit blood orange. Long and precise. A little mushroomy pinot on the nose.

Louis Roederer Cristal 2005
Quite wild and complex, nutty mushroom leesy Camembert. Extraordinarily delicate, fine and elegant, long and ethereal creaminess. A cut above the 2004.

Peramor Verdejo Rueda 2011
Quite subtle aromatically, thin and watery. Not giving much at all.

Monte Tondo Soave Classico 2012
Disappointing, suffers same problem as Verdejo.

Louis Jadot Macon Village White 2011
Subtle to say the least, fresh and clean but lacking much personality.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt RK Riesling Trocken 2011
Slightly spicy quince notes, clean and fresh but good level of mineral green notes.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kaseler 2011
Showing a little more concentration, density but still clean precise and fairly straightforward.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Wiltinger 2011
Bolder still, lifting but still an easy vintage.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Josephshofer 2011
More RS texture and weight, great precision and length, some botrytis notes.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goltropchen Riesling Spatlese 2011
Dense creamy lanolin texture, balanced yet rich and subtle sweetness.

El Bos Tinta de Toro 2011
Spicy Black Forest plum notes, bright fresh but a little fruit and oak sweet.

Monte Tondo Valpolicella 2011
Lavender potpourri, herbal lemon tea. A little tight and weedy, lacking depth and plumpness for the tannin structure.

Mazzei Badiola IGT 2011
Focused tight balanced fresh yet bold. Is what it says.

Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2010
Spicy nutmeg, black cherry red plum. Bright fresh approachable but focused.

Vietti Barbera d’Alba Vigna Scarrone 2010
Tighter leaner on the nose, density and focus. Fuller yet softer, more and longer tannins.

Louis Jadot Cote de Nuits Villages Le Vaucrain 2009
Safe. A tad hot. Serviceable.

Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny 2009
More depth and precision, more character and intensity. Delivers.

Pure Garrigue Cotes-du-Rhone Red 2011
Dense dark red fruits, very limited amounts of spice.

Domaine de la Renjarde Massif d’Uchaux 2010
Soft dense yet fresh and focused.

Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009
Totally against the grain for the appellation and vintage. Light fresh and vibrant rather than full soft and dark.

Chateau de Pez 2008
Serviceable but uninteresting.

Mazzei Mix 36 2008
Very international oak maceration nose. Very tight and focused but not full heavy or overworked. Focused fine yet intense tannins. Needs a lot more time for oak to blow off.

Red + White Imports

Red + White Imports

Leave a comment

Filed under Tasting Notes

Jacopo Cossater – Italian wine journalist & blogger

Roughly one year ago I was in Sicily and I was fortunate enough to encounter – at the same time and place – two people whom were amongst the most influential of my journey. The previous several weeks had been difficult in the south of Italy, with researching and securing appointments at wineries in Puglia, Abruzzo, Marche and Umbria. My expectations were modest for the largest island in the Mediterranean, as I had similar issues finding information about wineries, and also contacting and locating them. Of significant help to me was the team at Planeta, who are at the forefront of promoting not only Sicilian wine but the indigenous grape varieties found there. Through Planeta I was introduced to Arianna Occhipinti who is quickly becoming the shining star of all Italian wine, and whom I hope to interview in the near future. Visiting her was the other person, and his name is Jacopo Cossater.

Jacopo writes his own highly visited blog and is one of the contributors to the most influential wine website in Italy, Intravino. At the time he was on his own journey of wine discovery, through the central and southern regions of Italy over a period of several weeks. He wrote specifically about his experiences attempting to discover wines of great authenticity and personality as it is an area he has great passion for. One of the most honest, humble and personable people I have met he engenders both respect and affection from producers and communicators alike. Over several meals we were able to share our philosophies (which aren’t that different), and I was able to tell him of my own trip. When I returned to Perugia where he is based with his wife Laura, I was lucky enough to be able to introduce him to my parents as we were travelling together at the time. I was honoured when Jacopo interviewed me for Intravino not long after I returned to Australia, and as someone who is on the pulse of exciting movements in Italian wines, I wanted to return the honour by interviewing him.

Jacopo Cossater on the job

Jacopo Cossater on the job

Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under People

Tiefenbrunner – 19/03/2012

Pinot Bianco 2011
Actually had complexity and character in comparison to their equivalents north of the Alps.

Pinot Grigio 2011
Somewhere between the more familiar Italian style of crispness and freshness, and the rich slightly sweet alcoholic pinot gris style of Alsace. Texture and complexity, but dry and far from cloying. The higher up in quality with these varieties, the denser and more complex they become and the higher the potential for ageing.

Kirchleiten Sauvignon 2010 and 2011
Both on the sweaty and reductive side, with some complexity but lacking finesse and restraint.

Feldmarschall Muller Thurgau 2010, 2008 and 2007
Showed the potential for ageing, but also the need to have a cool and long vintage, as the 2007 was slightly too warm and the wine was falling away.

Pinot Nero Riserva 2009
Quite a robust caramel and coconut nose, showing a little too much oak and a tad heavy-handed on the tannins.

Lagrein Riserva 2009
By comparison is very full and complex, with soft tannins and great acids but a tad closed and youthful. It is a wine to be drunk now and cellared for later.

Linticlarus Cuvee 2009
A blend of Bordeaux varieties, had a slight menthol black olive nose and quite intense tannin and acidity, which has a lot to do with it being cabernet franc led.

Riserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Wonderful dark earthy nose with serious depth and complexity a soft tannins.

Some ines destined for Australia

Some ines destined for Australia

Leave a comment

Filed under Tasting Notes

Hofstatter – 20/03/2012

Kolbenhoff Gewurztraminer 2010
A nice subtle and earthy density, quite bold and textural without sweetness or overt viscosity.

Barthenau Vigna Ste. Michelle Pinot Bianco 2009
Showed very clean pure and fresh citrus notes on the nose, but with very intense crunchy acids and concentration of fruit and texture on the palate.

Kolbenhofer Vernatsch/Schiava 2010
Very light closed nose, soft light tannins and fruit, and is a wine that would go great with tomato based dishes.

Barthenau Pinot Nero 2007
Reductive red cherry tightness on the nose, depth and solid fruit, but at the moment the alcohol and oak are a little strong.

Steinraffler Lagrein 2008
Soft and mellow, with powerful yet supple tannins, but was a little simple and lacked depth and personality.

Hofstatter wine bar

Hofstatter wine bar

2 Comments

Filed under Tasting Notes

Alois Lageder – 20/03/2012

Gaun Chardonnay 2011
Very flinty and fresh, with exceptional balance on the palate, you wouldn’t know that it had 100% malolactic fermentation.

Porer Pinot Grigio 2011
Earthy and red berry concentration, and was softer and deeper than its equivalent in the Alois Lageder range.

Krafuss Pinot Noir 2008
Very elegant and light, with fantastic structure and personality

Lindenberg Lagrein 2008
Structure elegance and supple tannins.

The historic castle with the Dolomites behind

The historic castle with the Dolomites behind

Leave a comment

Filed under Tasting Notes

Elena Walch – 20/03/2012

Castel Ringberg Pinot Grigio 2010
A slightly creamy orchard fruit richness on the nose, with finesse and a hint of sweet spice on the palate.

Selezione Gewürztraminer 2011
A talcy classic gwt nose with some rose petal and turkish delight, and had great balance between opulence and freshness on the palate.

Selezione Lagrein 2010
Juicy and intense black fruit and spice notes, had very bold tannins on the front palate but clean and fresh on the back.

Kermesse 2007
A blend of 20% of each of syrah, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and lagrein, is robust in oak character but it is much better integrated with the fuller fruit and tannin elements.

The Elena Walch

The Elena Walch

Leave a comment

Filed under Tasting Notes