Tag Archives: Italy

Chiara Boschis – 13/04/2012

Dolcetto d’Alba 2011
One of the softest and gentlest I have tasted, and had a very warm caressing and forgiving nuance.

Barbera d’Alba 2010
Similarly supple and gentle, but is a little bit more probing with crushed white pepper and reminded me of simple but comforting provincial home cooking.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Very firm but fair, and is a wine that understands you and gives you exactly what you need, showing rustic cherry blossom notes with a structured mid-palate.

Cannubi Barolo 2008
Fiercely protective but with a soft touch, giving expressive but kind words, not showing strength unnecessarily but would lift a car to save their child in danger.

Via Nuova Barolo 2007
Much quitter, and only expressing the necessary information, very measured and intelligent, not aggressive but quite serious and determined.

Whether this actually meant anything to you, I’m not really fussed because the wines truly spoke to me more than most I have tasted.

The charming cellars of Chiara Boschis

The charming cellars of Chiara Boschis

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Fattoria di Bagnolo – 16/04/2012

Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2010
An interesting reductive and rustic nose with fresh black fruit and olives, very bright and forward on the palate with softness and clean structure.

Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2008
Had a dustier more earthy character on the nose, with a toasty oak element to support, and on the palate had tighter more precise tannins and focused concentration with some savoury and fruit characters to keep things relatively complex.

Capro Rosso 2007
An IGT blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and colorino. Had some subtle brooding roasted pine nut complexity on the nose, was quite broad and intense in fruit on the palate, and whilst very approachable had good balance and structure.

Grapes and olives are the lifeblood of Tuscany

Grapes and olives are the lifeblood of Tuscany

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Felsina – 17/04/2012

Chianti Classico 2010
Showed bright fresh red cherries on the nose, great purity and balance on the palate with focus and integrity, and is not your average chianti classico.

Chianti Classico 2008
The same harmony and balance, but with a few more years had opened up and was starting to express more complex rustic red fruits, with some nice savoury notes to complement.

Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
Was a significant step up aromatically, showing earthier and more mineralic red currants, much more intensity but also restraint, and although young was quite expressive.

Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
Had intense earthy rustic black fruits on the nose, was full and expressive on the palate but slightly hollow and lacking in structure.

Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
Similarly soft and approachable, with very mellow and full-flavoured tannins, but with slightly more character and freshness.

Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
As a product of its bottle age and vintage is very approachable now, showing interesting marzipan, cocoa and balsamic notes.

Fontalloro
A blend of fruit from vineyards in the Chianti Classico DOCG and the Chianti Colli Sienese DOCG, and as such is classified as an IGT wine. The 2009 and 2007 vintages were similar to those of the Rancia, but showing earthier and more powerful tannin structure and oak influence.

Fontalloro 1998 had some subtle black forest fruits with seductive sweet floral notes, had developed soft elegant tannins and juicy blackcurrant sweetness, still holding together very well.

The historic Felsina cellars

The historic Felsina cellars

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Poggerino – 17/04/2012

Labarinto Chianti 2010
Lovely and bright, with juicy dark cherry and blackberry fruit, and is a totally uncomplicated easy-drinking wine for every day.

Chianti Classico 2009
Very full and soft, intense in both fruit and savoury notes, but is one of the most balanced and elegant from the 2009 vintage.

Bugialla Riserva 2007
Avery dense yet delicate and complex nose, with black fruits and some walnut characters, is very expressive but also structured and textural. It is however still very young and needs at least two more years to soften a little.

Primamateria 2008
An IGT blend, of 50% sangiovese and 50% merlot coming from a different vineyard lower in the valley. Whilst an excellent wine is not what I consider to be particularly inspiring. It shows great balance and composure, with texture and focus, but shows as very young and not really expressive at the moment.

Poggerino Rosato is a personal favourite

Poggerino Rosato is a personal favourite

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Fonterutoli – 17/04/2012

Castello Fonterutoli 2007
Significantly showed the difference of having more oak than the sangiovese samples, and also the small addition of cabernet sauvignon. On the nose it combined roasted red capsicum with black cherry and red currants, and on the palate showed very youthful power and texture, looking very masculine.

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2009
Had an interesting floral black fruits nose, very good concentration and balance, a clean finish with nothing sticking out.

Siepi Toscana IGT 2007
A very dense mature nose, and on the palate was soft and plum jammy, very fruit sweet and warm and quite bold in fruit and oak.

Belguardo Serrata 2009
Blend of 80% sangiovese and 20% Alicante. Wasn’t showing anywhere near as well as the 2008 did when I sold it back in Australia.

Tenuta Belguardo 2007
Very soft and full, but still elegant and structured, with expressive blackberries and powerful breadth.

Belguardo Vermentino 2007
Very big aromatics somewhere between riesling and pinot grigio, but on the palate looked like a fruit-driven viognier.

Zisola 2009
From the Sicilian property was quite dull and lifeless, also not a patch on the 2008.

Fonterutoli tasting

Fonterutoli tasting

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Giorgio Meletti Cavallari – 18/04/2012

Rosato 2011
A blend of syrah and merlot, and was a very pale pink colour made only from pressed juice, with plenty of fresh balanced fruit characters of strawberry and cherry.

Bolgheri Bianco 2011
Showed bright peach and lemon peel freshness and texture, with balance and a green spice element.

Borgheri 2010
Blended merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, and was a nice combination of spice, earth, plum fruit and soft well structured tannins.

Impronte 2007
A blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% cabernet franc, had power and elegance, structure and finesse, and showed blackcurrant fruits with supple yet firm tannins.

Two of the wines made by Giorgio Meletti

Two of the wines made by Giorgio Meletti Cavallari

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Grattamacco – 18/04/2012

Vermentino 2010
Fascinating nose of salty oily apricot kernels, was fresh yet bold and textural on the palate, rich and contemplative with creamy nutty complexity.

Bolgheri Rosso 2010
Made from wines that don’t qualify for the top wines, spending less time in oak and barrel. Delicate yet tight and fresh, expressing dark fruit focus and restraint, and is not at all jammy or hot.

Grattamacco 2008
A blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 15% sangiovese, a unique putty earthiness with the black fruits, with a supple velvety tannin texture and exquisite structure and potential.

L’Alberello Bolgheri Superiore 2009
Comes from younger vines, and includes no sangiovese, made up of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc and 5% petiti verdot. Showed a softer yet fuller wine compared to the Grattamacco, more fruit sweetness and juiciness, with the same structure and finesse.

The four wines produced at Grattamacco

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Isole e Olena – 18/04/2012

Chianti Classico 2009
Probably the best I tasted during the week, as it showed very bright and pure red fruits with great harmony, intensity, purity and elegance. This wine is intended to be a classic approachable food-friendly style, but the quality is so exemplary it betrays its unpretentious intent.

Cepparello 2008
Fantastic combination of bright red mineralic freshness with earthy rustic complexity, building generously on the palate with elegant concentration and balance, but will benefit from at least 10 years of cellaring.

Syrah 2006
Had a similar earthy edge to the blackberry and carob notes, but introduced savoury toast and charcuterie elements on the palate, but was not the best example of the variety.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Showed great stalky yet opulent and intense approachability on the palate, and is drinking very well now, it makes me wonder if there really is a terroir for the variety.

Vin Santo 2004
Very surprised to discover a wine that had freshness, balance, complexity and creamy texture, combining custard, raisin and lots of nuts.

The bedrock under Isole e Olena

The bedrock under Isole e Olena

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Brancaia – 18/04/2012

Bianco 2011
A blend of 95% sauvignon blanc and 5% gewürztraminer, and had a classic sauvignon aromatic sweat coupled with bright fresh herbaceous kiwi and guava fruit sweetness.

Tre Rosso 2010
A blend of the three estates, and is composed of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. A very bright colour but is very light, showing dark ruby plummy aromas, fresh and tight fruits and tannins, with very little oak to overcomplicate.

Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
Had a very intense and fruit-driven nose, was focused and tight on the palate with full yet approachable personality.

Il Blu 2008
Made up of the two Chianti Classico DOCG estates, a blend of 50% sangiovese, 45% merlot and 5% cabernet sauvignon, and is Barbara’s original ‘super tuscan’. Had a wonderful dark currant and savoury chocolate nose, with some dusty and plummy fruit notes, fine yet firm and focused tannins and wonderful ageing potential.

Ilatraia2009
Comes from the Maremma estate, a blend of 40% cabernet, 40% petiti verdot and 20% cabernet franc, is decidedly softer and more mellow than the Il Blu, but with wonderful length and elegance.

The bright cellars of Brancaia

The bright cellars of Brancaia

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Boscarelli – 19/04/2012

Prugnolo Rosso di Montepulciano 2010
Made from 90% sangiovese and 10% mammolo, had wild green pepper expressiveness on the nose, showing bright red fruit on the palate with some complex spice and great drive on the back of the palate.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
Much more intense and closed, with some floral earth and darker fruit notes, focused acids, gentle tannins and some very subtle crushed herbs and dried apricots on the palate.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2007
Deeper black fruit sweetness, showing the toastiness of additional barrel ageing, violet floral elements and great balance.

Nocio dei Boscarelli 2007
One of the most seductive of all the wines I tried in Tuscany, combining floral, black cherry and yellow plum fruit aromas, with amazingly pure yet complex and concentrated elegance and tannins.

Boscarelli IGT 2006
A very perfumed cassis oak and dust element, with full and dense tannin and bold structure, but for the time being looked a little hot and needs some time in bottle to balance.

Familiae Vin Santo 2002
Was only the second of the style to impress me, having a caramel colour with some oxidative, flan, toffee, vanilla and hazelnut aromas, and whilst rich and sweet still had plenty of fruit and sweetness to offset the higher alcohol level.

The entire Boscarelli range

The entire Boscarelli range

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