Tag Archives: Felsina

Felsina – 17/04/2012

Chianti Classico 2010
Showed bright fresh red cherries on the nose, great purity and balance on the palate with focus and integrity, and is not your average chianti classico.

Chianti Classico 2008
The same harmony and balance, but with a few more years had opened up and was starting to express more complex rustic red fruits, with some nice savoury notes to complement.

Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
Was a significant step up aromatically, showing earthier and more mineralic red currants, much more intensity but also restraint, and although young was quite expressive.

Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
Had intense earthy rustic black fruits on the nose, was full and expressive on the palate but slightly hollow and lacking in structure.

Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
Similarly soft and approachable, with very mellow and full-flavoured tannins, but with slightly more character and freshness.

Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
As a product of its bottle age and vintage is very approachable now, showing interesting marzipan, cocoa and balsamic notes.

A blend of fruit from vineyards in the Chianti Classico DOCG and the Chianti Colli Sienese DOCG, and as such is classified as an IGT wine. The 2009 and 2007 vintages were similar to those of the Rancia, but showing earthier and more powerful tannin structure and oak influence.

Fontalloro 1998 had some subtle black forest fruits with seductive sweet floral notes, had developed soft elegant tannins and juicy blackcurrant sweetness, still holding together very well.

The historic Felsina cellars

The historic Felsina cellars

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Drawing blood from a stone (Tuscany, Italy – Day Two)

It becomes necessary to attempt to remove all expectations and preconceived notions when arriving into a new region and new producers. There is always going to be some flow-through from the previous region, we naturally compare an experience to the most recent one. Thus on my journey I am constantly having to readjust to each new place I visit and make no assumptions or judgements about such things as production volumes, estate sizes, yields, varieties or practices. What the important (and difficult) thing to ascertain is whether or not the philosophies and subsequent practices are right for that particular place. Whilst the nebbiolo grape is ideal for the elevated and cool hills of Piedmont, it is the sangiovese grape which performs exceptionally in the undulating and warmer landscape of Tuscany. Further to this, nebbiolo is a grape that necessitates small yields and small volumes to produce great wine, as it is notoriously difficult to handle both in the vineyards and in the cellar. Sangiovese needs a careful eye to be sure as it has very high yielding potential, but similar to the syrah grape is quite adaptable to site and you can easily make great wine in more generous volumes. The fact that I am visiting wineries that annually produce approaching one million bottles should therefore not mean they are not great wineries; they just couldn’t be great in Piedmont. After a very restful night and a couple of café lattes with breakfast, I adjourned to the winery of my hosts for the previous night.

Budburst has most definitely begun

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