December 10, 2012 · 8:11 pm
Now that winter has arrived I feel like I’ve come full circle in Europe because I arrived mid January in Paris. Back in February when I was in Germany you may remember that the temperature dropped well below zero and there was quite a bit of snow in regions like the Mosel, Rheingau and Franken. The morning of my third day in the Cote d’Or I awoke to falling snow that continued all morning and covered the cars, houses and buildings quite beautifully. It also made driving a little more challenging both for visibility reasons but also as the road was a little slippery. Seeing this just reinforces the fact that these wine regions North of the Loire Valley really are very cool-climate, and you would very rarely see snow in any regions in Australia, even further south in Tasmania. These cold temperatures and snow or frost are of course the reason that grape vines go into dormancy by turning brown and into canes, to protect themselves. It’s a shame that humans can’t develop a hard exterior that perfectly protects them over the winter, we would save a fortune on heating expenses, warm clothes and car problems. My final day in the Cote des Nuits I visited three small producers all with a different approach and expression.
|Nuits-St-George vineyards under snow
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December 7, 2012 · 9:25 pm
Clos de Roi 2009 Beaune Premier Cru
Nice intense but delicate complex nose, bright fresh red fruits, a little earthiness, heavily clay influenced, dark and fruity. Fresh and bright but also intense and soft, wonderfully balanced tannins and fruit, very lively but well structured. Not tight but very focused.
Les Cras 2008 Vougeot Premier Cru
Softer and more restrained, refined and elegant, floral perfumed, a touch closed at the moment, showing a little minerality. Looking very lovely and lively now, fresh but not to brisk in acidity, generous but still firm and focused tannins, broad but not fat heavy or simple, extremely well balanced. Supple and subtle but still plenty of time to develop silkiness.
Clos de Vougeot 2007 Grand Cru
More rustic and classic Burgundian nose, lot’s of mushroom earthy forest floor dampness, round fruit in the red spectrum, subtley stinky. Quite rich and intense, quite powerful but nor necessarily dense or heavy, expressive and explosive. Very fine delicate tannins, wonderfully elegant structure, but plenty going on that will soften and complexify with age.
Clos de Prieurie 2007 Monopole
Quite rich and intense, lots of fruit but not in a simple aromatic kind of way, showing plenty of oak mineral and lees complexity. Rich texture and viscosity, big style of white burgundy, very full and creamy, ripe stone and tropical notes, Amazing wine but also the reason I choose Chablis.
Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 2007 Premier Cru
A little more intense in minerality, slightly more lofted flinty more citrus fruit aromas, slightly brighter on the nose. Rounder and more complex but not as heavy and ripe, more subtle creaminess and sweetness from oak. Slightly more gentle and better integrated, a more elegant expression.
|Domaine de la Vougeraie