Tag Archives: Nuits-St-George

What goes around (Cote des Nuits, France – Day Three)

Now that winter has arrived I feel like I’ve come full circle in Europe because I arrived mid January in Paris. Back in February when I was in Germany you may remember that the temperature dropped well below zero and there was quite a bit of snow in regions like the Mosel, Rheingau and Franken. The morning of my third day in the Cote d’Or I awoke to falling snow that continued all morning and covered the cars, houses and buildings quite beautifully. It also made driving a little more challenging both for visibility reasons but also as the road was a little slippery. Seeing this just reinforces the fact that these wine regions North of the Loire Valley really are very cool-climate, and you would very rarely see snow in any regions in Australia, even further south in Tasmania. These cold temperatures and snow or frost are of course the reason that grape vines go into dormancy by turning brown and into canes, to protect themselves. It’s a shame that humans can’t develop a hard exterior that perfectly protects them over the winter, we would save a fortune on heating expenses, warm clothes and car problems. My final day in the Cote des Nuits I visited three small producers all with a different approach and expression.

Nuits-St-George vineyards under snow

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Domaine Henri Gouges – 7/12/2012

2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges
Kind of soapy on the nose, pretty full and ripe, stalky and oaky, deep and earthy. Bright round ripe and dark, opulent but focused, nothing really standing out though. Robust maceration giving it darker and rounder tannins, soft and smooth but not silky or fresh.

2011 Clos des Porets Premier Cru
Deep and dark again, oak tending to dominate the other characteristics, dulling the wine somewhat. Fairly crunchy texture from the barrel, on the warmish side, Full and warm maceration, textured but not heavy or too aggressive.

2011 Le Saint Georges Premier Cru
Expressive powerful dark and intense, more earthy, struggling to pick the difference between the appelations. Fuller deeper and more intense, increase in texture and warmth, black fruits and black olives. A product of vintage, appelation or winemaking, or a combination of the three?

Les Pruliers 2010 Premier Cru
Rustic extractive reductive.

Le Saint George 2010 Premier Cru
Deep dark soft and lot’s of ripe black fruits and black olives. Some nice spice, liquorice and a little mint for good measure. Nice and firm but focused and balanced, quite intense and very young, but integrated. Extractive and warm on the front but built to last and designed to be kept. Give it time.

Bourgogne Pinot Blanc 2011
Quite tight and fresh, very mineralic in fact. Intense bright and fruity. Very clean and light, nice mineral structure, purity of fruit, soft round and approachable, might actually be interesting in a few years.

Domaine Henri Gouges

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Harmand-Geoffroy – 5/12/2012

Gevrey-Chambertin 2008
Quite dark and haunting on the nose, lovely and soft, woody small berries, very foresty and subtle, well managed oak. Wonderfully soft and yet tight, excellent acids without a lot of weight, purity focus and drive without anything sticking out. Elegance restraint, but also something unique in the expression. Much more refined and pure expression of the terroir, not easy to find in the Cote de Nuits.

La Bossiere Premier Cru 2008
Such a delicate elegant colour, very pure and light. Vibrant clean elegant yet fresh and intense, very classic pinot noir aromas, but also classic Burgundian. Delicate elegant restrained and super balanced, soft supple long and precise, soft-hands, minerality comes through, perfectly balanced ripeness, integration.

La Perriere Premier Cru 2008
Great combination of dark soft fruit, earthy deep minerality, starting to show some fungal notes, and even a little oak, all combining in a beautifully complex way. Rich and full on the palate but so delicate, still very fresh with excellent acids and restrained tannins, oak completely integrated and harmonious. Subtle supple and long, the kind of balance that will last for decades. Nothing stands out at all, it is so gentle yet so well structured.

Lavaux St Jacque Premier Cru 2008
Starting to get a little darker and a little denser, more haunting and elusive on the nose, pomegranate and raspberry. Unbelievably drinkable now for a premier cru burgundy this young, yet with so much potential for aging. So light and fine, it takes a very respectful and non-ego driven winemaker to make a wine like this. As a mature wine this will be incredibly complex. Firm tannin structure, quite long on the palate.

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008
Significantly more closed than the previous wines, earthier deeper and richer on the nose, slightly more brooding but not powerful or intense, very soft. Exquisitely soft and supple, one of the most cuddly wines, the definition of silky. Amazingly long, fades beautifully, I can only dream how good this wine will get. Still has freshness thanks to the great acids and bright fruit, but softly softly.

La Bossiere Premier Cru 2009
Darker fruit, slightly stinkier, more robust but still very delicate and elegant. Tighter tenser terser tannins, more aggressive at the moment, soft but less supple and silky. Preferring the 2008 vintage if I’m honest. Tougher tannins and fuller structure, yet to find balance in the bottle. Lots of potential but not a super long time.

La Bossiere Premier Cru 2010
So unbelievably complex and intense on the nose, yet wonderfully subtle. Almost wild and uncontrollable, a lot going on in there. Fragile to the nines, delicate structure, soft supple and insanely balanced, freshness life yet so assured. Firm tannins will keep this wine aging a long time. Suave confident wine, George Clooney but classier. Savoury as well, awesome food wine.

Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy

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