Tag Archives: Domaine Bertagna

Expressions of interest (Cote des Nuits, France – Day Two)

One of the true revelations of my journey has been to discover the four components of what makes a great wine which must all be present and in balance. The first is the vine (obviously), but more importantly the right variety for the place. The place is the second component; for lack of a better term the terroir or the environment, which includes the climate but not the weather. The weather is a part of the third component which is the vintage, and how the specifics of the entire year can influence the character. The final component is the influence that people have, which includes everything viticulturally, oenologically, philosophically, spiritually and financially. All four components have their own influence on the character of the wine and to be a great wine they must be all working together, however one or more of the four often stands out more than the others whether intentionally or not. The most common component to dominate is the human influence of winemaking and something I am beginning to realise is that this is true in every region, even here in Burgundy. Winemakers whether deliberately or not want to impart their signature on the wine through anything from skin contact, use of oak, fruit sorting, ripeness of fruit at harvest and even the type and amount of filtration. So even within a single vineyard you may have slightly (or very) different expressions of the other three components. My day consisted of three appointments, all north of the village of Nuits-St-George.
Water is an important resource for wine production

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Domaine Bertagna – 6/12/2012

Bourgogne 2010
Quite a bold robust and concentrated nose, intense dark red fruit but also some funky meaty characters, perhaps some bret? Quite rustic in style, very young, quite light and fresh very delicate. Not atypical old-world style, some complex meaty characters. A touch wild and unique, not sure about the style. Perhaps a little reductive

Clos de la Perriere 2010 Vougeor Premier Cru
Brighter tighter, slightly subdued at the moment, perhaps an oak issue, some nice spicy notes too. Quite tense and dense, some sweet tannins on the back, nice purity of fruit, a touch heavy on the maceration, but not aggressive, well balanced oak and alcohol, nice concentrated fruit. Robust and round, pleasing to many people, perhaps a touch simple? Appealing to certain tastes? Needing more time to develop? Improving as it opens up.

Le Murgers 2009 Nuits Saint George Premier Cru
Light but quite robust colour, ripeness and maceration. Bright intense and full fruit, a product of vintage without question. Intense freshness and bright fruit on the front, very generous in structure and weight, a little sweetness from the oak, round, soft and full tannins and fruit character, very gentle and long, good structure. A peoples burgundy. Super drinkable now.

Les Beaux Monts 2010 Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru
Denser and more concentrated, quite tight and a little on the oaky side, brooding masculine style, tenseness. Full robust and generous, very concentrated, certainly oak character, on the savoury side, tannins and oak dominating, good structure but lacking a little finesse and a soft touch. A style is emerging. Classic modern burgundy, very lingering tannins.

Grandes Lolieres 2010 Corton Grand Cru
More subtle and closed, complex and gentle, floral notes coming through with the dark small berries, oak still sitting over everything possibly dulling the other aromas. Robust and earthy, missing a lot of the elegance and terroir because of the heavy maceration and oak regime, great wine for certain palates but not the kind of burgundy I would choose on a wine list. Very young, requiring a lot of time.

2011 Chambolle-Musigny
Nice and clean, quite pure, a little shy at the moment, but oak actually well managed and integrated. Bright fresh and intense, light with good acids, well structured, needs to come out of wood now in my opinion. Generous and soft.

2011 Vougeot
Showing some earthier olive notes, a little wild and old-school. Soft supple generous and rich, not heavy but fills the palate, perfect vintage for this style of burgundy. Nice length, pure but complex as well.

2011 Le Petit Vougeot Premier Cru
Denser more concentrated and showing newer more prominent oak notes, still very subtle and elegant however. Intense full, very powerful tannins for now, initially showing a little warm as well,

2011 Clos de la Perriere Premier Cru
Smoky and spicy, earthy and densely rich, savoury elements. Good purity and balance through the palate, soft and structured, nice firm well balanced tannins, good purity in fact, nice bright fruit and integrated oak.

2011 Le Murgers Nuits St George
Birght intense but delicate floral fruit characters. Soft full generous, again the perfect vintage for this modern style of burgundy, oak nor tannin out of place, well0-structrure and balanced.

2011 Les Beaux Monts Vonne Romanee Premier Cru
Dense tight slightly stalky style, a little spicy, a little herbaceous, small berries. Intense and concentrated tannins through the middle of the palate, locked up but precise, focused and straight, needs some more time to open out.

2011 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru
Super intense, super exuberant, super complex nose. Really expressive concentrated fruit, lots of new oak, tight and intense. Concentrated low yielding, very high in acidity and also a little warm at the moment. Far from being integrated and balanced, but wow what amazing potential in the future.

2011 Corton Charlemagne
Really bright and fresh, lots of lovely intense fruit characters, a little tropical but also stone and citrus fruits, handling the oak quite well. Really beautifully balanced and rich, wonderful acids and minerality but the malo has gone very well, creamy and rich without being heavy cloying or fat, sitting in a beautiful spot.

Domaine Bertagna

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