Tag Archives: Baden

Freiherr von Gleichenstein – 27/02/2012

Muller Thurgau 2010 trocken
A delicate pear and Asian spice nose with a pleasant and refreshing finish on the palate.

Muller Thurgau Feinherb 2009
Riper and richer fruit characters, but tremendous balance and savoury qualities.

Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken 2011
There is a nice sharpness and a spritzy clean and dry palate, good ripeness and a slight malolactic edge.

Grauburgunder Spatlese Trocken 2010
Very concentrated and vibrant with good intensity and integrity, with a slight savoury bitterness on the edge of the palate.

Baron Louis Spatlese Trocken Grauburgunder 2010
100% barrel fermented, has a distinct orange and lemon pith aroma, and a candied peel flavour on the palate.

Spatburgunder 2010
Aromatic but not obvious, with everything in balance and nothing to displease.

Eichberg Spatburgunder 2010
Softer and more voluptuous structure, with broader and silkier tannins, but lacks structure and interest.

Premium Spatburgunder 2008
A smoky meaty and volatile hoisin nose, with opulence and tightness at the same time.

Baron Phillip Spatburgunder 2007
100% new barrique matured, wonderful in spite of some strange aromatics.

Taking barrel tasting samples

Taking barrel tasting samples

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Weingut Salwey – 28/02/2012

2010 Weisburgunder wines
All quite rich and ripe in their pear and melon characteristics, with some delicate texture from barrel and lees contact.

2010 Grauburgunders
A subtle savoury creaminess which reminded me of freshly boiled pasta from the colander.

2010 Henkenberg Grosses Gewachs wines
Had better balanced and integration but will continue to improve in the bottle.

Reserve Spatburgunder Weissherbst 2010
An interesting barrel fermented rosé style wine which had too much going on for a rosé made from pinot noir.

Spatburgunder wines
2009 wines had great combinations of bright red fruits and savoury earthiness, good mid-palate structure and a clean long finish, whereas the 2010 wines were much deeper and tighter in the tannins and will take longer to open up.

Konrad Salwey

Konrad Salwey

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Weingut Huber – 28/02/2012

Auxerrois 2010
Very light and crisp

Grauburgunder 2010
Slight pink-grey tinge to it and went much better with the food thanks to its texture and ripeness.

Alte Reben Spatburgunder 2002
Showing some dusty earthy cherry notes, some brightness and silkiness on the palate, and whilst light (possibly from age) was very long and deep.

Reserve Spatburgunder 2001
Mushroomy barnyard notes on the nose, was still very tight and fresh on the palate but was showing some developed game and pork rind complexity.

The Alte Reben Spatburgunder 2009
Very perfumed currants with herb and spice notes on the nose, and on the palate has very silky tannins with fresh acidity to keep things lively.

Bienenberg Grosses Gewachs Spatburgunder 2009
Aromas are more shy, but is much more expressive (and youthful) in the tannins, with a grainy dustiness to them.

Schlossberg Grosses Gewachs Spatburgunder 2009
Very spicy brambly nose which makes me think they used some stalks in the ferment, and whilst very sharp and tight in the tannins now, is very complex with some subtle caramel notes that will develop over time.

Wildenstein Spatburgunder >R< 2009
Made from fruit from a specific parcel within Bienenberg and is thus technically not a Grosses Gewachs wine. It is concentrated and dense yet very subtle and soft. It expresses dark berry fruits with toasty nutmeg and cinnamon, very fine and slightly salty tannins with serious minerality.

Muller Thurgau 2010
Surprised me, as it was not in the least bit thin or watery, but was ripe and full-flavoured with balance and a great tropical freshness.

Bienenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2010
A great varietal example but really doesn’t compete with the wines of the north.

Bienenberg Grauburgunder Grosses Gewachs 2010
A wonderfully complex nose of toasty nutty pear puree, and although forward on the palate was not too crisp but was a little heavy and aggressive in the texture.

Bienenberg Grosses Gewachs Weissburgunder 2010
A little on the oaky side, expressing some creamy vanilla notes which were a little fat and clunky from too much malolactic fermentation.

Schlossberg Chardonnay 2009
Wonderfully toasty and flinty, with a very concentrated but subtle caramel and vanilla with citrus and stone fruit palate. This is by far the best (of the few) chardonnays I have tasted in Germany.

The Huber spatburgunder wines

The Huber spatburgunder wines

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Weingut Bercher – 28/02/2012

Weissburgunders Spatlese Trocken 2010
Slightly more texture and a green vegetal component.

Schlossgarten Grauburgunder Kabinett Trocken 2011
Very delicate and yet sharp and bright, and is more in the Italian pinot grigio style.

Feuerberg Grauburgunder Spatlese Trocken 2010
Bolder and fuller on the palate, with a little more texture but still fairly grigio in style.

Chardonnay 2010
Classically varietal in style; great peach and nectarine fruit, good acid and texture balance, light and fresh yet not simple.

Spatburgunder 2009
Typical light style of pinot noir, with fresh red fruits and acidity, god flavour but little longevity.

Barrique Spatburgunder 2008
Less is most definitely more in Baden, as for the second time the fruit was totally obscured by oak and appeared dull and lifeless.

Feuerberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs 2009
Much denser and more concentrated, with fuller flavour and texture and much better balance, and a mellow silkiness to finish.

Next to some large casks in the cellars of Weingut Bercher

Next to some large casks in the cellars of Weingut Bercher

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The other Burgundy (Baden, Germany – Day Two)

The largest town in Baden is Freiburg, and is famous in Germany for two things. The first is that it is the capital for cycling, and it is hard to miss them. When I say that I don’t mean that I hit a bunch of people on bikes in my rental car, I just mean that there are a lot of them, obviously. They are a little aggressive, but I guess you would be if you finally outnumbered cars on the road. The second thing that makes Freiburg famous in Germany is that it is a university town, and so is filled with plenty of good places to eat and drink for not much money. There is a really nice brauhaus where I enjoyed a stein of local lager with a big plate of smoked ham and sauerkraut, for only 10 Euro. I spent a fair amount of my time in Starbucks taking advantage of the free wifi, as my hostel didn’t have any. The coffee is terrible, but you can’t pass up on free wifi.

Schlossberg vineyards of Weingut Huber

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Border hopping (Baden, Germany – Day One)

You forget how close Alsace is to the border considering how different it is, but it dawned on me five minutes after leaving my accommodation in Strasbourg I was back in Germany. Situated on the eastern bank of the Rhine is the state of Baden-Wurtemberg, but Baden and Wurtemberg are legislated as different wine regions. Baden alone is the third largest wine region in Germany covering 16,000 hectares, but compared to Rheinhessen and the Pfalz it is not really known outside of Germany. The region has similarities to its neighbour over the French border, but is generally considered the red wine region of Germany. Much like Alsace cooperatives are very common, and 85% of the production is made by them. Also similar to Alsace, burgundian varieties are very popular, the most important being spatburgunder (pinot noir), grauburgunder (pinot gris) and weissburgunder (pinot blanc). The region is separated into nine districts from north to south, with the best known being Kaiser Stuhl. This name may be familiar with Australian wine consumers, but associate it with very cheap cask wine from the last century, no longer in existence (as far as I know).

Kaiser Stuhl vineyards

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