Monthly Archives: July 2012

The heat is on (Yecla, Spain)

I’d just like to point out a few things about myself and where I come from. It is true that I come from Australia, which is very hot and dry and is famous for the outback and the beaches, the latter I am familiar with but not the former. I’ve spent 29 summers in Australia, and I know how hot it can get. The part of Australia I am from is far from the hottest in the country, and is actually more famous for the rain. Particularly in winter it can get pretty chilly (rarely below zero), and doesn’t fit the image of Australia that most people may have. Thus I was somewhat unprepared for example, for the desert like conditions of Mendoza in Argentina, where the sun beats mercilessly down for 16 hours a day with very little respite or anywhere to hide. Nor was I prepared for southern Spain, particularly in the centre of the country, where you can easy go through six t-shirts in a day through sweat alone. Priorat and Montsant were pretty hot, but this was worse because it seems much drier. In a way it did remind me of some very well-known regions in Australia, and I wasn’t surprised that famed Barossa winemaker Chris Ringland is actually making wine in this part of Spain. What did surprise me is that there hasn’t been more investment in the Yecla region, as the potential to make the kind of wines the markets are crying out for is outrageous. With very little time to spend I was able to visit the cooperative winery, which is doing an outstanding job bringing Yecla to Spain and the world.
Sadly it is empty

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Resurrection (Alicante, Spain)

Alicante just ain’t what it used to be. At one point it boasted one of the most important wines of Europe, found in cellars of royal families, even referenced in books by Alexandre Dumas. Back in these day most wine was being sold in bulk to other parts of Europe to be bottled or blended with other wines, but this changed at the end of the 19th Century. The first enemy was the phylloxera epidemic, and the second was changes in markets and politics domestically and overseas. There are two main areas for viticulture in Alicante, and they each have a major indigenous variety. Closer to the coast where it is lower in altitude and a bit warmer and more humid grows moscatel, used to make sweet wines. Further away from the coast is where you find a bigger range of varieties, most importantly monastrell. I visited two estates in Alicante that represent a resurgence in interest in the region, but one is in a modern and the other a traditional model.
Fireworks over the beach in Alicante

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Gonzalez Byass – 03/07/2012

Tio Pepe
Fresh apples, toasty brioche quite doughey, bright pale nose. Very fresh and intense fruit forward, bright acids, very little rancio influence, nice texture, and good clean finish. Very nicely balanced and approachable.

Del Duque Amontillado Viejo (30 years)
Creamy toffee burnt caramelised butter, caramel fudge. Creamy smooth sweet texture but dry flavours. Very complex, evolves across the palate, fairly intense, quite hot but relatively well integrated, showing some toasty barrel characters.

Apostoles Palo Cortado Viejo
Deeper darker caramel and toffee notes, slightly smoky toasty roasted nut aromas. Sweet viscous texture, very warm and rich on the palate, toasty almond biscuit caramel, hazelnuts walnuts, caramel brittle.

Matusalem Oloroso Dulce Viejo
A suprising amount of freshness, very late toasty smoky (almost whiskey cask). Very raisined, very rummy, very spirity in general.

Noe Pedro Ximenez Viejo
Interesting balsamic notes, very mature complex characters, looking a lot less sweet than younger ones, a lot less raisin notes, toasty deep dark chocolate characters, complex slightly savoury raisin characters.

That’s a big bottle of Tio Pepe

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Lustau – 3/07/2012

Manzanilla Papirusa
Very pale straw colour, purest palomino. Quite a light and fresh nose, very delicate salty characters, some fresh green fruit notes. Slightly viscous but very light and fresh, some good intensity. A little complexity and salty ham character.

Puerto Fino
More smoky toasty rancio elements, slightly gamey. Toastier more intense texture, but with some savoury creaminess. Still very fresh but a more masculine style of dry sherry.

La Ina Fino
Very intense aromatics, very flor oxidative, mineralic earthiness. Bolder and fuller on the palate, retaining freshness but much more heavy and complex in structure and flavours.

Almacenista Manuel Cuevas Jurado Manzanilla Amontillada
Very cheesy notes, different leesy elements above the salt characters. Very soft and subtle, creamy texture and viscosity, roasted vegetables, savoury baked cream, quite long and complex.

Los Arcos Dry Amontillado
Lovely toasted caramel toffee aromas, glazed cheeses. Creamy palate, lightly smoked wood, soft creamy texture, quite light and fresh, not a lot of character. Builds a little on the back of the palate.

Amontillado VORS (30 years)
Gorgeous colour, like rich toffee. Astonishingly aromatic but also quite subtle and complex, toffee and coconut, almost like a Bounty bar. Very fresh tight and focused on the palate, elevated on the palate, Commands your attention, very fresh and slightly salty savoury.

Almacenista “Vides” Palo Cortado de Jerez
Amazingly complex aromas, floral, maraschino cherries, almonds, hazelnut liqueur. Very soft smooth and complex on the palate, wonderful savoury nut characters, still some freshness making it good with food, but something subtle and savoury to pair with.

Emparatriz Eugenia Very Rare Oloroso
Quite delicate on the nose, almost too subtle. Pure freshness, very long, some fermentation characters. Very nice drinking, just a little empty and without character or definition.

Anada 1997 Vintage Sherry Rich Oloroso Abocado
Showing a little of the alcohol on the nose, very delicate small raisin aromas. Slightly rum sweet, very fresh raisiny characters, nice full flavour and character, good balance, hitting a nice spot between sweet and savoury. Wonderful character and unique style.

East India Solera
Smoky toasty molasses, a hint of raisin, but quite dark and savoury in character. Bold rolling flavours, constantly changing, very complex and long, some nut and umami characters. Some interesting fungal shitake truffle character.

Moscatel Emilin
Bright intense fruit sweet nose, quite raisiny. Deep soft and full, but wonderfully fresh and balanced, a great companion to dessert. Wonderful characters of dried moscatels and some delicate spice.

Pedro Ximinez San Emilio
Very grapey and thick on the nose, a very classic style of PX, very thick heavy, some nice chocolate character.

Pedro Ximenez VORS (30 years)
Smoky toasty woody ash aromas, very very toasty burnt coconut husk. Insanely reduced and thick, barely even liquid anymore. Insanely complex, tastes exactly like treacle, very smoky intense coconut, like a really rich dark dessert.

Javier Lustau Solera Gran Riserva Brandy
Quite a subtle nose, very complex and delicate, agree that it has more an Armagnac character. Very balanced and subtle, quite smooth and yet fresh. Well contained alcohol.

Graduation of aged pedro ximinez

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Man of La Mancha… couldn’t resist (Valdepenas, Spain)

Madrid is everything that a capital city should be; it’s big, busy, historic, cultural, classy and teaming with life. In late June it is also scorchingly hot. It would have been at least 38 degrees in the shade, almost 10 degrees higher than only two hours north. On the Friday night of the weekend I was invited to have dinner with Didier Belondrade, his partner and a friend, where I enjoyed one of the finest meals of my trip and made me miss Melbourne a lot. Madrid is certainly a party town, and I didn’t get much sleep so on the Sunday evening when I got to Valdepenas I flicked on the Italy England Euro 2012 match and fell asleep after only ten minutes. Valdepenas is town that the DO takes its name from, and is the part of the La Mancha DO, the largest producing wine region in the world. Many in the Spanish wine industry look down on La Mancha as a low-quality commercial area, blaming it for the ills of the wine glut. There is however much quality to be found here providing that the price is right, and it is thanks to this region that so many consumers are drinking Spanish wine around the world. Valdapenas is the premium area of the region, and I wanted to find out what the best this wide, dry and healthy part of Spain had to offer.
Traditional fermentation vats in Valdepenas

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Bodegas Hidalgo – 2/07/2012

Amontillado solera (120 years old, 43 year old wine)
Nice toasty caramel smoky toasty notes. Fresh but salty, you taste the difference in the wine here, fresh but quite complex and very rancio oxidative, good structure through the middle of the palate, nice clean finish with complex texture of nuts and lees notes.

Oloroso solera (roughly the same as above)
Slightly more tar and molasses, slightly more vanilla. Much deeper toastier texture and slightly more noticeable alcohol. Depth and concentration, full flavour, nice focus and drive.

Palo Cortado (40-60 years old)
Showing some floral elements somehow, strong vanilla essence character. Amazingly fresh but expressive oxidative rancio notes, warming balanced and rich, smoky toasty intensity. Very mature.

Pastrajanna Manzanilla solera 12 years old
Green parsley basil notes, maybe some garlic in there, with that classic salty element. Tastes like prosciutto, amazing.

La Gitana herself

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Sanchez Romate – 2/07/2012

Fino solera
Wonderfully fresh, clean nose with solid rancio character. Tight clean and balanced. Well protected but nice oxidative complexity. Second solera rounder richer and more oxidative. Smoother somehow.

Amontillado solera
Wonderfully creamy burnt caramel, complex rancio oxidative notes, some nutty characters, vanilla beans. Toasty creamy texture but very fresh and dry, wonderfully complex characters.

Oloroso Sacristia solera
More oxidative wood notes, very dark caramel and chocolate notes. Deeper denser, very late nutty oxidative complexity, very long finish, creamy texture. Opulent rich and slightly sweet.

Pedro Ximenez solera
Extremely raisiny, so dense and viscous, quite warm, toasty and rich, very chocolatey. Somewhat subdued aromatically, slightly closed. Thick and gloopy. So heavy and full, more solid than liquid. Christmas in a glass.

Oloroso Viejismo (VORS, very old and rare sherry, minimum 30 years)
Wonderfully rich and deep aromas, extremely complex, integrated oak and toast aromas. Intense flavours, wonderfully bright, crunchy complex, less creamy characters, powerful expression, amazing companion to food, so fresh yet so complex.

Romate Very Old Oloroso

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