Tag Archives: Veneto

Allegrini – 28/03/2012

Soave 2011
Very crisp and fresh, with some nice depth and texture, something I like to see in the style.

Valpolicella Classico 2011
Bright floral juicy nose, and was pleasant and spicy on the palate.

La Grola 2009
Much darker and tighter, slightly fuller and darker as well – a good wine but hardly unique.

Amarone Classico 2008
Very fresh and had lovely fruit sweetness, supple yet firm tannins and great balance.

La Roya Amarone 2007
A significant step up; very deep and intense (possibly due to the warmer vintage), very prominent on oak at the moment, showing some great signs of complexity but requiring a bit of cellaring to open up some more.

A gorgeous view over Valpolicella

A gorgeous view over Valpolicella

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Continuing traditions (Soave, Italy)

Due to a few inconveniences both good and bad I lost at least seven days of potential visits whilst I was in Italy. Some of these interruptions were for holidays, including Easter which I spent with wonderful family friends in Milano, and who my parents and I also spent Christmas with last week. Other inconveniences were due either to the inability to find wineries thanks to inaccurate directions or addresses, or to wineries not replying to my emails. A final inconvenience was Vinitaly held in Verona, which was a fascinating insight into the world of trade shows but not a particularly good way to learn about wines and regions as not only are you simply tasting wines in a convention centre but the hosts are also extremely distracted with countless other things and therefore not able to give the best introduction to their winery. Whilst I was in Verona I did manage to visit a few producers in Valpolicella which is to the north of the city extending from the east to the west, but there are a number of other areas in Veneto that were left unexplored, including the highest volume DOCG, Prosecco. I had the chance to join a group from Australia for dinner in Verona at the invitation of their Soave producer, and being familiar with their quality I was thrilled to have the chance to take my parents there on my return.
The castle sits overlooking the village of Soave

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Pieropan – 28/12/2012

Soave 2011
Lovely bright citrus honeyed slightly grassy and herbaceous, a little oily on the nose, very aromatic and soapy. Wonderfully textural, ripe and oily with some warmth but still wonderfully fresh, bright tight, floral influence on the palate. A little creaminess and very subtle sweet nuttiness, roasted chestnuts.

Calvarino 2010
Deeper richer and riper on the nose with more concentration, more subdued spice and green notes, ripe citrus and melon notes. Bright tight focused acids, very intense but also quite subtle fruit characters, soft generous extremely long and complex, rolling around the palate, stone fruit and some pear as well.

La Rocca 2010
Rich ripe very strong creamy crunchy oak character, very burgundian in style, plenty of malolactic and battonage characters, dried stone fruit and citrus. Pretty extreme toastiness. Soft and gentle on the front, but builds with some very intense work characters, at the moment it is difficult to see past the winemaking characters of the wine, particularly in this vintage the fruit and terroir is not showing as much. Approaching Californian chardonnay characters. Opens up nicely once allowed to breathe.

Ruberpan Valpolicella Superiore 2010
Wonderfully spicy and peppery, sloe berries, dark fruit and florals, crushed rosemary. Lovely and soft and fresh, still bright but excellently approachable with lovely depth and length, fills the palate, tight and bright but generous and ageable for at least five years.

Amarone Vigna Garron 2009
Soft ruby nose with some dark cherry and plum characters but also some lovely savoury notes as well. Soft generous smooth velvety tannins, dried berries lovely and intense, certainly in the ripe sweet region, the tannins are very long and grippy. Very balanced alcohol, deceptively well balanced.

Le Colombare Recioto di Soave 2008
Subtle but intense citrus marmalade oxidative characters, some lemon curds and lemon tart, still a little spice and grass notes. Very fresh and not cloying at all, subtle and generous, focused and bright, rolling and yet lifted, exceptional acid holding things together. Wonderfully balanced and full of personality.

Pieropan

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Pitstop (Valpolicella, Italy – Day Two)

Wandering around Verona for a day, I truly felt like I had arrived to Italy, and also I had walked onto a living breathing Shakespeare set. The city is beautiful, and has all the elements of a classic Italian city; Roman ruins, cobbled (pedestrian) streets, piazzas, trattorias, fashion stores, and lots of stylish attractive people. The city was full of people, partly taking advantage of the great weather, but also a combination of tourists and visitors for the Vintitaly fair which started on the Sunday. The fair itself is away from the centre of town, and so doesn’t interfere with daily life in Verona too much. But I’ll talk more about Vinitaly in a separate post.

Me above Valpolicella

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This Is ITALIA!! (Valpolicella, Italy – Day One)

Driving south through the Adige Valley is quite a spiritual experience, as the Dolomites jut out of the earth in a very rugged and wild way, and houses and vineyards seem to sit precariously on the edges of cliffs. As Alto Adige becomes Trentino, one of the first things you notice is the difference in vineyards. Whereas in the north it is more common to have guyot trellising systems, in Trentino it is more common to have pergola-based vineyards, as Trentino tends to be a little bit more focused on volume. There are a number of great small producers who are focused on quality, and also on more traditional viticultural and winemaking techniques in harmony with nature. One of these is Elizabetta Foradori who I caught up with at Vinitaly, producing wines using biodynamics and using such techniques as amphora fermentations on skins. For white wines no less. It is a shame that I didn’t have enough time to spend in Trentino as I drove through, but Verona and Vinitaly beckoned. As did Valpolicella, less than 30 minutes from the city.
Valpolicella Rosso = pergola trellising

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