Tag Archives: Piedmont

Chiara Boschis E. Pira & Figli – 4/06/2014

Dolcetto d’Alba 2013
Slightly talky floral pomegranate dark cherry. Very clean fresh and pure, generous yet focused, on the amaro side.

Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2012
Very clean light colour. Fairly shy, showing lean herbal, a tad earthy. Builds a bit on the palate, hints of cocoa leaf and salted caramel, on the violet side.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2012
Still very clean but dark and earthy. Tight lean focused, hints at dark fruit but looks a little stripped.

Barolo Via Nuova 2009
Squeaky, somewhat smothered in oak, deep dark earthy, vanilla tar coffee, extractive chewy tannins.

Barolo Mosconi 2009
Smells eerily similar to the Vigna Nuova, more earthy tarriness of oak, approaching coconut. It’s hard to see the nebbiolo, has the wine changed or have I?

Barolo Cannubi 2010
Much better vintage for the style, sweet balsamic reduction. Better composition and structure, concentrate yet lightness, sweet profile of fruit and some new oak.

Barolo Via Nuova 2010
Subtle tarry leather caramel, florals a bit hidden. More concentrated tighter tannins, chewiness, complicated rather than complex.

Barolo Mosconi 2010
Deeper darker chocolate notes, more pronounced aromatics. Lifted bright intense, fairly vibrant fruit.

Barolo Riserva 1990
Funghi sweet artichokes, very mature cheese. Some mature sweet & sour notes, tomato soy reduction, still lively with good acidity.



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Vittorio Bera – 4/06/2014

Le Verane 2012 (Frizzante Barbera, bottle re-fermentation)
Fresh light bright clean yet dry. At bottling 4g of residual sugar is left, meaning some bottle variation in terms of bubbles and dryness. Showing nice balance of fruit and herbal savoury notes.

2013 Arcese
Reminds me of the 2013 Moscato d’Asti from Bera already in Australia, much more generosity of fruit compared to the 2012, bright yet lean. The wine is filtered through paper under pressure at bottling to retain frizzante.

Ronco Malo Barbera d’Asti 2011
Deep dark fruits, brooding earthy. Extremely fresh and lively, alcohol perfectly in balance, lot’s of goof acidity and focused tannins.

Monferrato Dolcetto d’Asti 2010
Roasted tomatoes stuffed with rosemary turmeric and a bit of pork. Wild savoury meaty yet soft and rich, freshness and persistence, fruit comes late on the palate.

Monferrato Dolcetto d’Asti 2009
Showing way more fruit but so many other things as well. Vibrant fresh fruits and savoury meats as well, somewhat tighter.


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Cascina Bruciata – 5/06/2014

Barbera d’Alba 2012 – planted 2009 first vintage release
Nice rustic herbal spicy red fruits, quite floral as well. Juicy fresh, vibrant acids and tannins, soft yet focused, nice tightness to the acid structure, fleshy and fresh at the same time.

Usignolo Langhe Nebbiolo 2011
Very hot dry vintage, harvested on the 30th of August. Much more on the fruity side aromatically, sweet floral notes too, a little bit of dustiness coming through quite late. Tannins quite dense and concentrated on the front middle palate, fading on the mid palate but showing good length. A warmer expression thanks to the vintage.

Langhe Freisa 2012 – planted 2009 first vintage release aged for one year in used barriques
Bright but a darker more concentrated colour. A bloody red tomato character, some spiced cured meats too, on the rustic side, red fruits coming through. Bright acidity and freshness, soft yet dark tannins, focus drive and nice complexity without being too much.

Dolcetto d’Alba Rio Sordo 2011 – 65 year old vines aged six months in used barrique
Quite rustic sour cherry wildness, bordering on the volatile side. Very intense and warm, but exceptionally fresh on the palate, vibrant fruit and acid, has really good staying power. Confident concentrated expression.

Barbaresco 2010 – aged in a mixture of Slavonian casks and cement
Extremely lifted aromatics, very complex aromas, dark red fruits, pretty but also dense. Exceptional balance and precision, perfect poise and persistence, fresh and light, concentrated and firm, vibrant and drinkable with a lot of class.

Barbaresco Rio Sordo 2008 – 2 years in old barriques
Deeper darker nose, more brooding but no less intense, more dark chocolate dust notes. Soft opulent voluptuous tannins, bold generous and sweet dark fruits, interesting slightly savoury herbal kick on the back. Warmish but well-balanced with good acidity.

Barolo Cannubi-Muscatel 2010 – The only true Barolo Cannubi-Muscatel
Very very complex, wild dark fruits, crushed roses and violets. Powerful yet supple, rich yet fresh, round yet focused, so much pleasure in the glass, yet so much complexity at the same time. Very long…


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Ceretto – 3/06/2014

Blange Langhe Arneis 2013
Lovely juicy bright fresh, juicy ripe pear and apple, with some guava texture. Generous expression in youth, potentially also vintage related.

Rossana Dolcetto d’Alba 2012
Very concentrated lifted floral almost cough syrup cassis herbal notes. Tight lean focused fresh, good tannins, not overtly fruity, refreshing and pleasant yet serious.

Piana Barbera d’Alba 2012
A little bit more closed on the nose, slightly earthier meatier and spicier notes. Livelier on the palate, vibrant but not simple fruit, meatier tannins and a bit more length.

Monsordo red blend
Bordeaux varieties therefore not worth talking about.

Bernardina Nebbiolo d’Alba 2011
Lean focused cured meats, spicy raspberry, some dried currants dipped in carob. Juicy and generous but light and savoury, very focused, tannins a  little drying.

Riesling 2012
Absolutely nothing wrong with it, very delicious in fact. Does it compare to German, Austrian or French riesling? Probably not. Is that a bad thing? Not at all!

Prapo Barolo 2009
Rusty dusty dark fruits, some salted dark chocolate. Some middle eastern sweet spices on the palate, some soft dark cherry savouriness too.

Brunate 2005
Not showing that great. I think possibly a product of the vintage, rarely am I amazed at 2005 wines.


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Bentleigh Tasting Group – Piedmont Nebbiolo

This month I got the opportunity to pick the theme, and for obvious reasons I chose an Italian theme. Considering many of the members of the Bentleigh Tasting Group are very experienced sommeliers, some of which are studying either WEST or Court of Master Sommelier courses, I thought the most beneficial topic would be nebbiolo from Piedmont. Considering how revered wines from this variety and region are, and the complicated nature of the DOC and DOCG systems, it would be interesting to look at how vintage, producer and site variations effect the wines.

Bentleigh Tasting Group discussing nebbiolo

Bentleigh Tasting Group discussing nebbiolo

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Heart & Soil Imports – 17/09/2013

Randall Pollard is pretty well-known in Victoria for his history as an independent wine retailer and merchant. He is known for sourcing a great range of interesting unique wines from Europe. He invited me to the office to have a look at a few new arrivals into the country.

Keller Rieslaner Spätlese 2011
Quite juicy lime & quince, lovely and round, generous long, some residual sugar viscosity.

Keller Riesling 2012
Crisp bright flinty citrus. Pure fine straight and fresh, mouth-filling intensity.

Keller Riesling Van der Fels 2012
Delicate subtle floral lychee minerality. On the shy side for the moment, textural minerality, fruit a little closed, will need some more time to open and express.

Keller Riesling RR 2012
Gorgeous blossomy rich intensity, very musky with rich dried citrus. Very mature character, earthiness and slight spice.

Louis Moreau Vaulignot 1er Chablis 2010
Richness density vanilla butter salty citrus. Fine broad yet focused acidity, length, dried pear and papaya, creamy texture.

Vicentini Agostino Il Casale 2011
Very savoury earthy dark spice aroma. Very mature savoury texture, some dried stone fruit notes.

Malvira Roero Arneis 2012
Lifted bright floral kiwi intensity. Fresh round dry and generous, lots of character whilst being friendly and drinkable.

Malvira Renesio Roero Arneis 2011
Dirty wild earthy wetness. Density and broadness at the same time, tasting the dilution of the overcast wet vintage. Very wet stone.

Malvira Saglietto Roero Arneis 2011
A little more feminine in nature, pretty floral candied notes. Just as mature and dense on the palate as the Renesio but more appealing fruit sweetness and roundness.

Chateau de Ségriès Tavel 2012
Bright intense cherry strawberry cream. Dry and full but fresh and long, nice balanced acidity and fruit, considering fruit sweetness it is deceptively dry and warm. Dangerous almost.

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Poderi Colla – 10/04/2012

Pian Balbo Dolcetto D’Alba 2010
Combined rose petals, pepper and spiced plum aromas, and on the palate was very bright and tight, with some raspberry acid freshness.

Costa Bruna Barbera d’Alba 2009
Showed more of the earthy oak derived oxidative notes, more brooding but at the same time softer and more voluptuous on the palate.

Dardi Le Rose Bussia Barolo 2007
Oodles of earthy tar, dark chocolate and blackcurrant aromas, on the front palate showed raspberry rose petal and on the back had sweet black fruits and dried parsley.

Roncaglie Barbaresco 2007
A much more perfumed yet delicate nose, and silkier more approachable tannins, finesse but still plenty of oomph.

Bricco del Drago 2007
85% dolcetto, 15% nebbiolo, quite dense and earthy on the nose, and slightly closed, expressing full dark fruit and oak characters with softness and intensity. It is a wine with which I need to gain more familiarity, and for now I’m putting it in the “too hard basket.”

The Poderi Colla range

The Poderi Colla range

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Domenico Clerico – 11/04/2012

Tre Vigne Barbera d’Alba 2009
Chocolatey black forest fruit spices, juicy dark cherries and some warm oak tannins.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2010
Some stalky kindling notes but was caressing on the nose, approachable yet serious it was fresh and full.

Arte 2007
A blend of 90% nebbiolo and 10% barbera, showed the earthy dark fruit tannins and power on the front of the palate, but washed away quite nicely on the back.

Pajana 2007
From the Ginestra vineyard, quite reductive and funky on the nose, but opened up quite nicely on the palate, showing the brute of Barolo with firm yet supple tannins.

Ciobot Mentin 2005
Also Ginestra, had the benefit of a few years to soften out the tannins and fruit, but looked a little closed for now, and will open up again in five years.

Per Cristina2003
Comes from the Mosconi vineyard, is the wineries top wine, and was showing beautifully. A much warmer than average vintage, you would expect the wine to develop a little faster, as more classic vintages of this wine take at least 15 years to express to their full extent.

Private cellar of Domenico Clerico

Private cellar of Domenico Clerico

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Vietti – 11/04/2012

Roero Arneis 2011
Comes from Roero DOCG, bright and bold on the nose, textural and rich yet very mineralic with some green tropical notes.

Tre Vigne Barbera d’Alba 2009
Spiced meat earthiness on the nose, is soft yet intense on the palate with oodles of savouries.

Scarrone Barbera d’Alba 2009
Denser and darker, but has a new-world vibe to it, with sweet new oak tannins.

La Crena Barbera d’Asti 2006
Fantastic, as it was pure, soft and full, yet had personality and depth, showing the marriage of site and variety.

Perbacco Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Could easily be classified as Barolo, showed the purity of variety and had delicate tight tannin finesse and some earthy stalk notes. I shared an interesting discussion over use of the term “baby Barolo”, which I think is cheapening the wine, and it should be described as a great Langhe Nebbiolo.

Castiglione Barolo 2008
So much going on and was so subtle it was hard to pinpoint, but had wonderful structure and elegance, and had depth and volume as it travelled back on the palate.

Masseria Barbaresco 2007
Very tight and closed, but had great lines and focus which will develop beautifully given time.

Brunate 2008
Intensity and power, but was the epitome of an ‘iron fist in a velvet glove’.

Rocche 2008
Much more intense, earthy and masculine.

Lazzarito 2008
Broader fuller and more generous, but no less driven and structured.

The huge range of Vietti wines

The huge range of Vietti wines

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Massolino – 11/04/2012

2010 Margheria
Perfumed fruit and earth notes, great red fruit acidity and structure, and wonderful concentration.

2010 Vigna Rionda
Similarly bright in its aromatics, but had much more intense mineralic concentration, and was fuller on the tannins.

2009Vigna Rionda
The same intense dark floral note and tannin structure, but is much softer and deeper than the 2010.

2008 Vigna Rionda
Some similarities to the 2010, and looks younger than the 2009. The focus of the acids and tightness of the tannins make me think of a tightly wound coil waiting to be released.

Dolcetto d’Alba 2011
Lovely and bright with spicy black fruit, softness and opulence on the palate with a great balance clean finish.

Barbera d’Alba 2011
Similarly very fresh and soft, but showed some sweet spice notes and more opulence from the minimal oak it receives.

Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Made from declassified Barolo vineyards, was very delicate and subtle, silky and supple with some brambly pinor noirish characters.

Barolo Classico 2008
A step up, showing distinct fruit and floral aromas, and had a faint passion fruit seed note, complemented by almond cream and minerality.

Margheria Barolo 2008
Bold and pure.

Parafada Barolo 2008
Concentrated and brooding.

Parussi Barolo 2008
Showing wilder more opulent characters.

Vigna Rionda 2006
Almost a combination of the other three crus wines; wild, funky, earthy, mineralic, dark and red fruit, bright, focused, dense, powerful yet excruciatingly young.

Moscato d’Asti 2011
To freshen the palate, a wine which uses fruit from Alba/Barolo, but can be classified as Asti. Confusing.

The 1982 vintage opened a few days earlier

The 1982 vintage opened a few days earlier

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