Tag Archives: Peter Sisseck

Moving and shaking (Ribera del Duero, Spain – Day Two)

About 15 years ago Spain became the new frontier for wine in Europe, with a number of emerging regions being discovered by a small group of pioneers not necessarily from Spain. It was a great time to invest in the country, as land prices were still relatively low, the costs of labour and materials was lower, taxes were beneficial and there was growing interest for the wines around the world. Those early pioneers like Alvaro Palacios and Telmo Rodriguez got in at the best time, but had to work hard for very little initial reward. They are now reaping the benefits of their commitment and foresight, and those who followed rode on their coattails (particularly in terms of brand building), but at the same time paid higher prices in general. Unfortunately times are different in the year 2012 as it is well-known. Spain amongst other countries is in deep recession, and things aren’t much better in many export markets. The recent controversy of Pancho Campo only served to highlight the growing reliance on media endorsement, and the exploitability of wine businesses eager to get an edge in an increasingly competitive global market. The pioneers aren’t too fazed, as they are well entrenched in their regions and wineries, and their wines are unlikely to fall out of favour, as long as there is rabid demand to pay full price for allocated wines. I was introduced to two projects of another pioneer and modern icon, the Danish-born Peter Sisseck.
Bunches in mid-flower in the vineyards of Quinta Sardonia

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Quinta Sardonia – 19/06/2012

2011 (80% of QS2)
Noticeable Bordeaux varietal influence, spicy dark fruits, plum, cassis, blackberry, jammy. Juicy powerful yet soft elegant, structured, a little fruit sweet to offset dry tannins. Good purity and lift, some subtle minerality. Good freshness on the back.

2011 Quinta Sardonia (almost, new barrel)
Much more toasty green herb and capsicum with ripe black fruits, sweet oak nose. Full mellow and fresh, very bright and intense, powerful focused warm concentration, dense and good savoury elements. A wine with interest and character but easy to drink and appreciate.

2011 Quinta Sardonia (almost, older barrel)
Softer rounder and fresher but still very concentrated, intense dark fruit, with minerality and savoury notes. Somehow chewier tannins, juicy and fresh.

Quinta Sardonia 2009
Amazing perfume, fascinating combination of the petal and vegetal parts of roses and violets, some deep sweet spice elements. Juicy dark fruits, very soft full velvety and slightly raisined characters, sweet new oak components with good ageing, well balanced and integrated, very lifted and bright but good ripeness.

Quinta Sardonia 2010
Similar intense aromatics of floral, earthy, dusty, pot-pouri, dark fruits. Very soft, even more mellow, lovely full broad sweet fruits and subtle but firm and expressive tannins. Some savoury earth notes late on the palate. Either ready or not, hard to tell.

Cuddles all around

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Dominio de Pingus – 19/06/2012

Flor de Pingus 2010
Dark intense fruits, quite an amazing amount of savoury notes for such a vibrant flotal nose. Juicy ripe red and black fruits, very slightly spicy, very intense concentration, bold and full in the mid-palate, dense firm yet fresh and bright tannins. Finesse yet power, needs a few years in bottle to soften and open up. Tense and tightly coiled. Not too oaky, nor too hot and jammy.

Pingus 2010
Darker more concentrated colour, very intense and bright in purple vermillion. Toasted roasted ripe and raisined, dense impenetrable dark fruits, sweet savoury molasses notes, black sweet spices, some sweet balsamic reduction notes. One of the most concentrated wines I have tasted on my trip, not heavy exactly, but incredibly tannic, fruit powerful, hot and powerful. Warm climate and 2-3 tonnes per hectare make this an intense experience. Born this way, not made this way. Some very slight citrus notes on the back, still retaining some freshness of acids. I appreciate the concentration, but I don’t like it.

The 2009 Pingus, what’s left of it anyway

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