The 2010 Tradition wines (Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer) were all very fresh and consistently high-quality varietal examples, showing texture and food-friendliness.
The Collection wines (Riesling 2010, Pinot Gris 2008 and Gewurztraminer 2008) I tried were all exceptionally good, with the Pinot Gris the standout showing slightly smoky reductive pear notes on the nose, and restrained richness and creamy earthiness.
Of the Trois Chateaux wines I tried (Riesling 2010 and Pinot Gris 2009), the Riesling stood out with its salty earthy minerality on the nose and palate, with great concentration and texture, but without weight and overt fruit.
Pfersigberg Grand Cru Riesling 2010
Closed and far too young, but had wonderful complexity and length on the palate.
The Eichberg Grand Cru Pinot Gris 2010
Very dark floral honey nose, had wonderful density and savoury complexity, but was very elegant and harmonious.
Long tastings in Alsace
One of the major goals of my journey is to discover first hand what makes each great region in the wine world unique, to find a consistency if there is one. With so many regions to choose from as a wine consumer, it helps to have some element of the product to distinguish it from everything else. Most major regions in Europe usually have more producers than all of Australia, and when you only visit six of them it isn’t always easy to get an accurate snapshot. If you are visiting very high quality ones it does help, as the tenets of quality are usually the same (low yields, natural yeast fermentation etc.) Even in these circumstances you can get producers that have almost completely different philosophies, yet both produce outstanding wines. This is one of the many things that makes wine such an amazing product, and working in it exhilarating.
|Old foudre with tartrate build-up at Kuentz-Bas