Tag Archives: Dr. Buerklin-Wolf

Dr. Buerklin-Wolf – 16/02/2012

Gaisbohl GC Riesling 2009
A monopol vineyard owned exclusively by the estate, a rich and slightly oily nose, and ripe strawberry lime cordial viscosity and weight, with full texture from a little residual sugar.

Hohenmorgen GC Riesling 2009
A very delicate toasted nut and green minerality, with less intensity of fruit and more mid-palate savoury texture and length.

Pechstein GC Riesling 2009
Similar to the J.L. Wolf I had tasted the previous day, showed the influence of the unique volcanic basalt soil composition. It showed a much darker more intense yet subdued fruit character, was quite brooding for a riesling, had great purity yet many dimensions.

Ungeheuer Riesling Trocken 2003
Retaining very ripe tropical pineapple primary fruit, but picking up some nougat and honey bottle-aged characters, lacking in oiliness though.

Reiterpfad Riesling 1999
Some wild sweet spice subtlety on the nose, and a glazed orange and custard palate, very soft and slightly toasty.

Pechstein “R” 1998
A special sweet wine produced from an outstanding vintage. It had a lovely rich yet haunting nose of kerosene, nuts, caramel and lime, with astonishing complexity and depth on the palate, creamy toasty and earthy at the same time. I was tempted to buy a bottle at only 35€.

Pre-biodynamic wines of Dr. Buerklin-Wolf

Pre-biodynamic wines of Dr. Buerklin-Wolf

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Heir splitting (Pfalz, Germany – Day Two)

There seems to be a revolution taking place in the German wine industry, perhaps in reaction to market perceptions of the wine they produce. During the 1990s and 2000s there seemed to be a move away from the large volume blended sweet and fruity white wines of the 1970s and 1980s, towards very steely crisp and bone-dry wines. Today there seems to be a movement away from the aromatic and bright dry wines towards more complex textural and rich wines that retain concentration and mid-palate structure. Wineries also seem to be shifting towards more traditional techniques in an effort to craft wines in this style. Firstly in the vineyard the VDP is introducing classification of better parcels of vineyards, much like the French appellation system, and there also seems to be a movement to organic and biodynamic viticulture. Secondly in the cellars winemakers are reintroducing practices like extended must contact, barrel fermentations and oxidative handling. After almost three weeks in six German regions I am starting to wrap my head around the varietal, and see how each region expresses the variety using terroir and winemaking.

Vineyards near Bad Durkheim

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