Tag Archives: Dominio de Es

The source (Ribera del Duero, Spain – Day One)

As I’ve probably already said, my trip isn’t just about wine. Naturally the most important thing for me is to travel to the regions and visit wineries to learn about the places, people and processes behind the many and varied wines of the world. As I have also probably said, wine isn’t just about what is in the glass and the facts about how it was made. So many things influence wine that it is hard to have one without the other. Cuisine for example, or culture. The previous weekend I went to San Sebastian to indulge in the former, and this past weekend I went to Bilbao to indulge in the latter. Specifically I wanted to visit the Guggenheim, and add it to the list of iconic galleries/museums I have visited in the last year, which include the Louvre and Musee d’Orsay in Paris, the Uffizi and l’Acedemia in Florence, and the Met in New York. After visiting the Guggenheim in Bilbao I have now visited all three (the others are in New York and Venice respectively), but the Bilbao was probably the most impressive in terms of architecture and collection. Having got a bit of a culture fix, I journeyed to the eastern part of the Ribera del Duero region, which lies in the next valley south from Rioja. On my first day I ventured deep into the very mouth of the river to visit two producers who are doing things a little differently.
Outside the Guggenheim in Bilbao

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Antidoto – 18/06/2012

2011 Limestone soils (20% of blend)
Intense colour and aromatics, very spicy and blackcurrant. Looking quite toasty and very dark in fruit. Wondrful concentration and full soft tannins, depth and integrity but plenty of acids. Lifted and structured.

2011 Sandy river stone soils (40% of blend)
Brighter more floral and fresher fruit aromatics, less earth and spice. More intensity of acidity and freshness, very focused down the middle of the palate, power yet restraint, excellent balance but a tad undeveloped. Racier somehow.

2011 Clay soils (40% of blend)
Dirtier darker, more rustic and wild. Soft full bold mouth-filling, broad juicy, very expressive dark fruits, approachable generous tannins, not the same level of drive and focus, the meat of it. Nice lengthy tannins.

2011 Antidoto
A little shy, but wonderfully intense and brooding, very dark but not heavy or oaky. Nice clarity, focus, wonderful freshness of red and black fruits, juicy and vibrant but considered and contemplative. Exceptionally young, quite tight and focused, components working in perfect harmony.

2011 Dominio de Es
Dark juicy sweet black fruit, wonderful lift and vibrancy, more concentration and mature tannins, reacting with the oak a little more somehow. Too early to see the character, quite locked away in concentration, would like to see it in a few more years.

Bertrand Sourdais examines one of his vines

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