Tag Archives: Domaine Jean Marc Brocard

Keep it simple (Chablis, France – Day Two)

If anyone has played competitive team sport in their life they may have heard of the KIS principle, which stand for Keep It Simple. Looking back on my trip I am finding it fascinating that many of the wineries and regions that I most connected with have this same principle in mind. Even more interesting is that this connection was regardless of red or white wine, but applied to philosophies and practices as well as style. The clarity purity and minerality of the rieslings I tasted in Germany blew me away, as did the gruner veltliners in Austria. Some of the best wines I tasted in Spain were those that were straightforward and approachable, such as the albarinos in Rias Baixas and the verdejos in Rueda. In terms of French wine, the simple white wines of the Loire Valley and Chablis have a special place in my heart, as the minimal intervention they make in the wineries means it is purely the expression of the variety in their particular terroir. In fact there are a number of similarities in terms of climate and soil composition between Sancerre, Pouilly and Chablis, but the latter chooses to express through chardonnay rather than sauvignon blanc. The minerality of these regions is legendary, but I am starting to see there are some different expressions that still follow the KIS principle.

Some of the characters of Chablis

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Jean Marc Brocard – 4/12/2012

Petit Chablis 2011
Grassy crisp green light citrus lemon lime notes, quite simple and fresh. Ripe fresh dense and broad, very pleasant and good for the style.

Chablis Vielles Vignes 2011
Smokier flinty minerality, crisp and focused but elegant. Dense and both full yet green. Pleasant enough but lacking finesse and minerality on the palate.

Julien Brocard 2010 La Boissonneuse
Rich ripe concentrated fruit, stone-fruit as opposed to citrus. Nice focus and balanced through the palate, nothing sticking out, has kind of an ungainly fruit-sweetness to it.

Cotes des Lechets 2009 Premier Cru
Focused clean and pure, quite delicate and precise but with some delicate richness. Broad and a little clumsy, good acids and balanced alcohol, just a tad fat.

Vaulorent 2010 Premier Cru
Rich broad better focus, clean and tight but approachable. Plenty going on in this one, much better expression and style. Good fruit ripeness.

Vaudesir 2010 Grand Cru
Bright crisp and lovely ripe fruit, very inviting. Very tight and mineralic with some late open richness and ripeness. Quite precise clean and lacking in depth and character. Well made example of Chablis but far from distinguished.

Les Preuses 2009 Grand Cru
Good, not great. I’ll drink it if it’s in the glass.

Domaine Jean Marc Brocard

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