Tag Archives: Domaine Jaeger-Defaix

The name game (Chablis, France – Day One)


When I was younger I didn’t like my name. In terms of my first name I didn’t really have a problem with James, but I didn’t like it being such a common name, nor did I like derivations and colloquialisms of it, like Jim, Jimmy or Jamie. Considering how uncommon my surname is and how much of an individual I attempted to be, you would think I would like my surname but this was not the case. I wasn’t a fan of the length of it nor did I like the fact that people could neither spell it by ear nor could they pronounce it when reading it. I love my name now, being proud of its uniqueness and also as the last male Scarcebrook in the family I have a sense of obligation to continue the name. People in Europe, particularly France, are similarly fiercely proud of their names, often naming their children after themselves. Continuing the family name carries over to the family business as well, but complications arise with splitting of estates between children or establishing new estates with the same name. Within the same village it is not uncommon to find several producers of the same name, and within an entire region this could multiply significantly. Not for the first time on my trip I arrived at the wrong winery because it had essentially the same name, even though there is no relation between them. This gets complicated out in the market as a producer’s name is effectively their brand, so when someone else is using the same brand their products can reflect on your own reputation. I guess this is another complication that makes wine so special, and it is important to trust your source, be it a restaurant, store or importer.

Limestone clay and a bit of chalk

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Domaine Jaeger-Defaix – 3/12/2012

Rully Mont Palais 2010 Premier Cru
Very fine, rich and expressive but at the same time quiet. Very deep ripe and rich on the palate in comparison, totally different style. Density and richness, wonderfully full and powerful, a little bit heady.

Les Cloux 2010 Premier Cru
Less generosity, more sweetness of fruit, lighter and more restrained, finer and more delicate, but still nice richness and breadth. Wonderful finish, really great delivery on the style and variety.

Rabourcet 2010 Premier Cru
Powerful yet quite late on the palate, probably the most complex with a very different intensity. Looking a little warm at the moment, a touch full and aggressive, missing something in the balance.

Domaine Jaeger-Defaix

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