April 5, 2013 · 7:38 am
Grechetto Colli Martani 2011
Very generous and fruity, with some lime and kiwi notes and good fresh texture and acidity.
Montefalco Bianco 2011
A little softer and simpler, very balanced and fresh but also quite bland and thin.
Trebbiano Spoletino 2011
Had a fuller and more brooding ripeness and texture, showing some guava and pear spice, interesting minerals and texture with some warmth and intensity.
Montefalco Rosso 2009
Combining cumin and blackberry with intense bright focus and freshness, reminding me a little of some of the refosco wines of Friuli.
Sagrantino di Montefalco 2007
Had good volume and density, with some earthy tannic qualities and length, very well-balanced and approachable.
A single vineyard sagrantino wine, some very explosive power and fruit sweetness, very concentrated and hot, quite out of balance.
The all important wine press at Fratelli Pardi
April 25, 2012 · 6:37 pm
According to my host the previous day, Orvieto is not traditionally considered part of Umbria, as it is closer to Lazio and Tuscany with an Etruscan heritage. Central Umbria had a much more rustic history, being very simple farmers. This part of Umbria has garnered a lot more attention recently thanks to their red wines, most notably in the Montefalco area where the sagrantino grape is king. In the past Sagrantino di Montefalco was a passito sweet wine that was consumed as a table wine with food. It was traditionally the wine that would be drunk with breakfast on Easter Sunday each year, as the first wine drunk after lent. The breakfast was naturally very hearty, including slow-roasted lamb, cured meats and egg, and would last several hours. Back in the 1970s they began to introduce viticultural practices from other parts of Europe in Umbria, and this changed grape and wine production in the region. With the former trellising systems there were high volumes of grapes produced, which meant to achieve the ripeness necessary for the sweet wines in particular, the harvest was usually not until late October. With new pruning practices introduced and more intense plantings, yields were reduced and ripening occurred earlier, with harvests beginning in September. Thus began the serious production of dry red wines from one of the most tannic red varieties possible. Sagrantino is tough to grow, but is quite malleable in terms of ripeness levels and vinification practices, and from what I tasted there is no defined style as yet, it is up to the producer. As the understanding of the variety and the terroir improves so will the quality of the wines.
|Bush-trained sagrantino vines
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