Tag Archives: Bernard Fouquet

Moullieux out (Vouvray, France – Day Two)

Not having done any serious winery visiting for so long I had forgotten that generally in certain countries in Europe they don’t really show visitors vineyards. I have a number of theories about their reasons for this. The first is that a lot of the time cellars are not on the estates the vines grow, partly as it is more important to use land for vines but also as originally the vineyards were owned by the church and then split amongst the people in the villages by Napoleon. The second theory I have is that with so many vignerons owning vineyards in essentially the same area they can rarely claim a terroir as their own, and must therefore talk about their expression of the terroir. Another theory I have is that there is an assumed understanding about their appellation and terroir, and there is very little need to show the vineyards. The final reason is that generally visitors are more interested in either flash wineries (Bordeaux) or cellars, and of course in tasting the wines. So it is with disappointment that after three days and seven appointments already I have only had one of my hosts show me vineyards. This is the case in France and Germany, but less so in most of Italy, Spain and Portugal. I took it upon myself to drive around the vineyards of Vouvray to get acquainted with them, but it isn’t the same without someone pointing out specifics like viticulturist practices.
The cellars of Bernard Fouquet

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Domaine des Aubusieres – 23/11/2012

Cuvee le Silex 2011
Lovely bright crisp aromas of citrus and some stone fruit with an edge of herbaceous green grass and parsley. Just a delicate hint of lees notes. Mouth-filling and fruit forward, fresh and clean but nice pleasant texture. Round and generous, dry but fruity and approachable. Lovely balance and good drinking. Great clean finish, leaves you wanting more.

Cuvee le Silex 2010
More concentrated nose, more honey notes sitting over riper stone and tropical fruits, slightly more floral notes, some oily aromas as well. Rounder yet lighter weight, fuller and longer on the palate, still looking a little young, nice viscosity and great elegance.

Cuvee le Silex 2008
Very aromatic, jumping out of the glass, surprising for its age. Not showing a lot of fruit characters now, exhibiting some maturity on the nose. Some complex savoury elements showing now, a little truffle oil, nutty elements, and some earth. Quite savoury on the palate, very long and nothing on the front, fills the mouth very broadly, nice maturity and texture on the palate. Much more of a food wine after some time in bottle.

Le Marigny 2010
Slightly darker in colour, possibly from barrel and battonage on lees. Riper more tropical notes of kiwi fruit and star fruit, some pear and guava as well. Very subtle well integrated oak. Very young, initially looks like a white burgundy or chablis, has an interesting saltiness to it, lees derived wheat characters. Nice structure and concentration, yet to express itself.

Le Marigny 2011
Freshly bottled showing a lot of barrel characters, slightly herbaceous notes, not showing fruit at the moment. Fuller and richer but somehow straighter on the palate, slightly smoky and more textured in youth. Far too early to assess.

Le Plan de Jean 2011 Moullieux
Serious notes of parsley right out of the glass, fruit quite subtle for now in youth, but also showing a little minerality on the edges. Very full but not too viscous, very fresh and lovely fruit concentration and balance. Full but nice clean finish, not a dessert wine in the Alsace context, great with cheese and fruit based desserts. Some interesting savoury elements to the wine which will be interesting to see how they develop in the bottle.

Le Plan de Jean 2002 Moullieux
Lovely rich golden colour with more age in bottle. Classic mature aromas, truffles, mushrooms, earth, cheese, dried apricots and pears. Bold and expressivge on the palate, harmonious and rich with integrated acids. The dried fruit comes very late on the palate, but there is also a little late warmth on the palate. Opening up every time I taste it.

Cuvee Alexandre 2009 Moullieux
Extremely complex nose, very rich but also masculine and brooding. More subtle honeyed concentrated fruit aromas of stone fruits. Expressive but not explosive on the palate, still quite restrained and elegant. Sugar well tempered by the high acidity, so the impression is not of overt sweetness but balance.

Le Marigny 2003 Moullieux
Extreme apple liquer (calvados) with some prune notes too, earthy and some lovely mature cheese notes. Thicker and more concentrated viscosity, fuller and more impression of sweetness. Very honeyed and ripe stone fruit. Much more powerful and sweet in the mid-palate.

Cuvee Alexandre 2003 Moullieux
More quiet on the nose and subtle, more earthy savoury notes on the aroma, subdued fruit, some minerality showing as well. Full and rich but not cloying, nicely balanced with good acids. Better balanced and potential for ageing than the previous, excellent harmony between sugar and acid, with complex fruit and savoury notes. Seriously elegant.

The cellars of Bernard Fouquet

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