Umani Ronchi – 27/04/2012

Ca Sal Di Serra Verdicchio Classico Superiore 2011
Showed subtle fresh tropical fruit and floral notes on the nose, and was very crisp and vibrant on the palate with good acidity and viscosity to keep the wine approachable but interesting.

Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio
Made from old-vine fruit, and the 2008 had a slightly candied apple custard waxiness and freshness, was very gentle and elegant on the palate with subtle creamy complexity.

Plento Riserva 2009
The odd one out of the three verdicchio wines, as it is matured in oak rather than solely stainless steel, which gave it a very muted fruit freshness and vibrancy, and gave the wine a slightly oak-derived sweetness.

San Lorenzo Conero Rosso 2010
Made from 100% montepulciano, very hidden by a layer of oak and rusticity. Whilst it had good precision and structure I couldn’t see the elegance or the personality of the wine.

Jorio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009
By comparison had oodles of character, achieving an elusive balance between fruit and savoury characters, elegance and expressiveness, fresh and complex characters.

Lumaro Conero Riserva 2007
Suffered from over-maceration and too long in oak, as it looked clumsy, blunt, aggressive and very new-world.

Pelago 2008 (50% montepulciano, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot)
Had a similar problem, but at least the Bordeaux varieties are suited to this kind of maceration and oak treatment. Whilst the wine was of good quality it could have come from anywhere.

Fonte del Re Lacrima 2010
Fresh, exuberant, floral and spicy, having approachable full flavoured yet tight focused tannins. This was a wine treated with the respect and care lacking in some of the other red wines.

The modern way to moderate the temperature in the cellar

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