Bourgogne Blanc 2011
Lovely and bright, crisp and fresh, very minimal oak, malo or lees influence. Great citrus purity. Wonderfully fresh, clean and balanced, just enough complexity from the work in the cellar, but in no way interfering with the expression of the terroir and the variety. Zingy and zesty for now with a hint of sweet ripeness, approachable but very fine and elegant. Good start.
Saint-Aubain Premier Cru 2011
A little smokier and toastier, more struck-match, tighter more mineralic but still bright attractrive fruit. A little richer and more intense on the palate, rounder and warmer. Denser and more structure, a little darker and more powerful, much more aging potential.
Vireuils Meursault 2011
Much richer creamier and more buttery in youth, finer sweeter smoky minerality, Very mineralic in structure and texture, intense and warm, creamy and rich but not at all fat or too round. Quite harmonious and contained, fine and elegant but still expressive.
Narvaux Meusault 2011
Noticeable influence from fossilised sea-shells as it has that oyster clam shell aroma. Richer but a little bit greener herbaceous vegetative influence. Totally different aromatically to the previous wine. Purity and finesse, very compact in the middle and also focused, but really opens out beautifully at the back. Has some creaminess that will continue to evolve over time.
Puligny 2011
Quite intense minerality, very smoky struck match flinty notes, a little lees influence, crisp bright citrus notes. Very fine and quite closed on the front but gradually opens out building complexity and is exceptionally long on the palate, lasts a long time. Beautifully integrated and balanced, wonderful restraint and respectful winemaking.
Embazees Chassagne Premier Cru 2011
Pure fine elegant, a little richer and riper, moving from citrus to a little topical, some crunchiness and depth. Fuller rounder more volumous, bolder but still very elegant and fine.
Tete du Clos Chassagne Premier Cru 2011
More flinty and more floral, lifted and less density on the nose. More expressible on the front palate, denser and more masculine somehow, dirtier and more textured, grainier and more deserving of cellaring. A little wilder in character.
Clos de la Cave du Duc Volnay Premier Cru 2011
Dark and deep, but firm and structured, balanced and approachable but very young with plenty of time ahead of it. Great structure and expression, but volume and length, soft yet firm tannins.
Champeaux Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2011
Brighter tighter spicier, darker and earthier, ruby characters. Bolder and more forward, powerful expression of fruit and terroir, earthy masculinity, full and unctuous but very focused and pure.
Hautorey (?) Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru 2011
Darker colour and aroma, quite stinky in an almost reductive way, still settling down, starting to think this is also terroir derived. Full yet soft and voluptuous, very complex and long, nice balance of fruit earth and savoury green notes.
Grillotes Chambertin Grand Cru 2011
Very shy and closed, very intense and brooding, stoic style of burgundy. Wild and intense on the palate, powerful yet fresh and soft, really intense on the mid-palate, big expressive and a little bit of sweet dark fruit, but intense and integrated. Far far too young.
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2011
Wild herbaceous cherry stalks, deep spicy notes. Intense but bright and fresh, not overtly rich fruit, spice and very intense tannin structure.
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| Benjamin Leroux |
The Intrepid Wino 