Tag Archives: United States of America

Wine in them hills (Napa Valley, California – Day Two)

Bright and early on my second day in the Napa Valley I drove up into the Spring Mountains, hoping that the weather would improve, as my first day had been rainy and gloomy. I had corresponded with JJ McCarthy from Cain Vineyard and Winery before I left, and arranged to visit at 8:30am, so I got a really great view from a lot higher up. The Cain vineyard is at least 650m above sea level, whereas the Napa Valley floor is only about 200m, so elevation is clearly on their side. The soils on Spring Mountain are also a lot tougher, so the vines have to work harder to find water and nutrients to thrive. One of the first things I noticed were fewer and smaller bunches of fruit than in the valley floor. Tasting the fruit was thrilling, as it is the first time I can remember actually tasting terroir in grapes, and the cabernet sauvignon tasted like wine!

Cain vineyards covered in fog

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In the Valley (Napa Valley, California – Day One)

Interesting wine fact; California produces about 30% more wine than all of Australia. The Napa Valley is without doubt the most famous region in California. However, less than 5% of California’s production comes from the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. And yet the Napa Valley is the second most visited place in California, after Disneyland, which shows how important wine tourism is here. As previously mentioned I began contacting wineries in California before I left Australia, and those I contacted in Napa were by the far the most responsive. It was nice to have a few more appointments to fall back on, but as I was relatively unfamiliar with most wine from the Napa I didn’t know what to expect. Driving up the 29 Highway towards my first appointment you realise how important the wine business is here, with extensive and dense plantings constantly and a winery every 100m or so. No wonder they call this the Vegas of wine!

Opus One winery, one winery for one wine

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On top of the world (Santa Cruz & Montebello, California)

Santa Cruz is clearly a very laid back hippy town, so most of the tasting rooms don’t open until noon. This gave me the opportunity to catch up on a few things and have a late brunch at Saturn Cafe; banana and walnut pancakes with a cup of fruit, good coffee too. As I’ve been travelling up the coast I’ve been reading a signed copy of Rex Pickett’s sequel to “Sideways” that I picked up at Foxen Winery. I didn’t read the first book, and I’m kind of glad I didn’t. Rex Pickett isn’t exactly a great writer, and in spite of all the erudite phrases and multi-syllabic words that Miles utters, he can’t seem to maintain correct grammar or punctuation. It is nice to see what happens next in the story though.

Bonny Doon Tasting Room

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Potholes, pine trees and rain (Mt. Harlan & Santa Cruz Mountains, California)

I felt a sense of regret leaving the Central Coast this morning, a feeling I’m sure I’ll have many times during my travels. The past few days have been fairly gloomy and rainy in the area which according to the locals has been fairly common this vintage, which will be a much later one. Some of the hosts I’ve had at wineries have been almost apologetic about the rain, considering California is the sunshine state, but coming from Melbourne means you get used to odd weather patterns.

The view from the Calera winery

The view from the Calera winery

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Hard to say, easy to remember (Paso Robles, California)

Driving up from San Luis Obispo into the hills of Paso Robles is awesome. It’s a little further back from the coast than regions further south, and seems a little bit drier and warmer, but you also feel the difference in elevation. Great winding roads took me out to my first of two visits, where I passed deer and squirrels.

Tablas Creek tasting room

Tablas Creek tasting room

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I just met a region called (Santa Maria, California)

Several weeks before I left for my trip I began sending emails to wineries in California to introduce myself and explain the nature of my trip. Many responded enthusiastically, particularly from the Napa Valley, some a little reluctantly and some not at all. The former reason because they are more setup for tourism in their particular area and have staff who are employed for this reason. The other two reasons because they are smaller operations and are too busy with vintage at this time of year, and understandably so.
Bien Nacido

Bien Nacido

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"Sideways"… anyone? (Santa Ynez, California)

After spending the weekend in LA it was nice to get into a car and head north towards wine country. The 2.5 hour drive along the coast is gorgeous and quite spectacular. It does take a while to get out of Los Angeles, but the traffic wasn’t too bad. I’m also glad to have had experience of driving on the right-hand side of the road in France last year. As I started to approach Santa Barbara I started to get tingles, as I am a huge fan of the film “Sideways”, as I’m sure many of you are.

Los Olivos cafe

Los Olivos cafe

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