Tag Archives: Bordeaux

Full circle (Bordeaux, France – Day One)

There is a kind of poetry to my arrival in Bordeaux at this point in my trip. After this week I will be taking a hiatus from the wine discovery for about seven weeks, travelling through the UK, Ireland and Northern Europe playing the part of the cliché Australian backpacker. After this I will be working the vintage in Germany and will be having a different wine experience to the one I have had over the past 10 months. This therefore means that Bordeaux is the last wine region I will visit until November when I finish vintage and finish off my French wine discovery in places like Burgundy and the Loire Valley. In a way my journey has been leading up to Bordeaux as it is considered to be the greatest wine region in the world. Wine consumers and critics are more widely enamoured of this region than any other to the point that Bordeaux wines often sell for exorbitant prices in secondary markets if they are from a prestigious house and a great vintage. Bordeaux has created such a strong image around itself, the wines and the appelations that very few wine connoisseurs would struggle to name at least one left bank appellation. This region is the reference for marketing, branding and wine style for so many regions around the world that the cabernet sauvignon variety is the most widely planted in the world. There are thousands of wineries around the world who attempt to produce wine in the Bordeaux model, using the classic varieties and winemaking techniques to produce robust full-bodied and oaky wines. Almost every country I have visited has at least one Bordeaux variety planted, and there are many examples of the blend from Germany, Italy, Portugal, Chile and the USA. So after being shown so many ‘bordeaux’ wines in my journey coming here to taste the original and still the best is like the end of a pilgrimage. My first day was spent in the south eastern parts of Bordeaux at Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere, Chateau L’Eglise Clinet and Chateau d’Yquem.
Outside the famous Chateau d’Yquem

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Chateau L’Evangile – 25/07/2012

2011 Chateau L’Evangile
Nice intense soft merlot colour. Bright intense merlot nose, balsamic reduction and black cherries, some dark pomegranate, very slightly spicy but lots of fruit. Intense supple yet firm and structured, nice clean finish, good fruit concentration but not heavy, in fact quite fresh. Some very subtle savoury notes coming from the barrel, as well as a crunchy texture. Very tightly wound, needs a few more years to open up.

Chateau L’Evangile tank temperature control

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Chateau Leoville-Barton – 25/07/2012

2011 Chateau Langoa-Barton
A little sharp on the nose, not very expressive fruit or floral elements, very dusty cabernet sauvignon dominant aromas, quite reductive and shut down. Shy and reserved fruit, good structure, not full or heavy, a little shy and not full, clean texture, good freshness, nice and lean but not sure how it will react to another nine months in barrel.

2011 Chateau Leoville-Barton
A much darker inkier colour. A lot more ripe cabernet influence, certainly more ripeness of dark fruits and expression, denser and still with that stalky dustiness. Showing slightly more new oak characters. Great structure and texture, wonderfully fresh and bright, tight and lean tannins and excellent core of acidity through the palate. Excellent potential given time to be a structured food friendly wine that is both approachable but with good character. Excellent fruits.

Leoville-Barton 2010 Jeraboam

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Chateau Pichon-Longueville – 24/07/2012

2011 Chateau Pibran (Pauillac)
Very intense purple, quite bright and spirited. Bright dark fruits, berries and cherries, slightly creamy and vanilla notes. Creamy texture, almost like wild berry yoghurt, soft but dense with good concentration.

2011 Les Tourelles de Longueville
A little denser and tighter on the nose, slightly stalkier and a little green herb element, nice bright florals and small berry notes. Fresh full and soft, dense and ripe tannins, quite savoury in fact with just a hint of vanilla oak influence. Good lines but still far too early.

2011 Baron Pichon-Longueville
Very mature, old vine elements, much more complexity, density and finesse, less expressive but this will come. Very intense but also fresh and precise. Great structure and density, the cabernet sauvignon is very refined and well balanced. Nice combination of fruit and savoury elements, well managed oak but that may change given more time in barrel.

Baron Pichon-Longueville 2010
Very floral, rosy and violets, lovely intensity of dark fruit, fairly classic Pauillac cabernet sauvignon. Bright intense fresh, quite tannic and showing a lot of barrel at the moment, balanced and structured well with a good long finish. Density and maturity in the flavours and the tannins, mouth-filling but also good acidity. Dominated by youthful tannins and oak, but will develop over the next ten years.

Baron Pichon-Longueville 2009
Fuller but softer notes, fleshier juicier fruits, less floral elements and more intense oak integration. Full dense and soft, robust and broad. Approachable and soft yet well structured, doesn’t have the same concentration and core of acidity though. Looks good now, will improve for ten years or more but won’t last as long as the 2010.

Baron Pichon-Longeuville in all it’s glory

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Chateau Montrose – 24/07/2012

Chateau Montrose 2008
Nice classic colour. Classic Medoc nose, cassis tar, cigar leather, dusty ripe stalks. Precise and fresh, straight lines of tannin and acid, soft mellow and rich, good structure and approachable now, with lots of potential for ageing. Nice slight astringency and volatility and a very slight bret character that adds to the complexity. Tight and lean, slight green notes from the petit verdot. Fruit needs more time to open up and express itself.

Chateau Montrose 2008

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Chateau d’Yquem – 23/07/2012

Chateau d’Yquem 2006
Bright golden colour, not a hint of orange. Very concentrated oily nose, apricot peach pear, dry honey and vanilla beans, finesse and elegance but very aromatic. Intense creamy texture, vanilla lanolin, fresh fruits, some delicate sweet spice, quite bracing in the acidity and astringency, needs some more time to soften and develop, A very textured wine, hiding a lot of its complexity under creaminess and alcohol.

Chateau d’Yquem from the year of my birth, not a real bottle and not tasted regretfully

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Chateau L’Eglise Clinet – 23/07/2012

2011 Le Petite Eglise
Nice delicate colour, light and fresh with ruby undertones. Very charcuterie-like on the nose, with bright but closed red fruits. Tight fresh and lively, deep concentration without being heavy or fat, slightly candied o the back of the palate, density of fruit looking nice and approachable, with some developing oak notes of caramel and char.

2011 Chateau L’Eglise Clinet
More intense dark purple colour. Darker fruits, more intense floral aromas, a little dusty molasses. Much more intense structure and texture, more robust fruit tannins, but soft and approachable, just youthful and intense. Some tightness from the cab franc perhaps, a refined merlot structure.

Chateau l’Eglise-Clinet 2002, unfortunately not tasted

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Comtes Von Neipperg – 23/07/2012

Chateau D’Aiguihe 2007
Nice tarry black fruits cassis blackcurrant with a slight dusty balsamic note. Soft bright, good intensity and freshness, dark fruits but soft and structured. Approachable tannins and very well balanced. Reasonably simple but quite good.

Clos de L’Oratoire Grand Cru 2007
Slightly deeper and earthier, more brooding and yet still bright and fresh with expressive dark fruits. More character in the palate, earthier more savoury elements, definitely oak influence in the flavours and texture. Slightly chewier but balanced through the palate.

Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere Grand Cru 2007
More refined and closed, more mature and assured, earthy and slightly meaty with concentrated red fruits. Very bright lifted and intense, very fresh and pure, late influence on oak, structure but wonderful lines through the palate, very young. A coiled spring will open up with time.

La Mondotte 2007
More floral and dark fruits, nice concentration and lifted aromatics, full on the nose and inviting. Soft mellow and smooth, but balanced and structured through the palate. Very approachable now, not sure it will improve much, it’s great now. Quite different.

Chateau Canon la Gafelliere

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